Yesterday, while waiting for some samples, we loitered on Broadway and popped into Zara. Sigh, we're quickly learning that visiting the big retailers will never be what it was when we were thirteen and thought 'a lifetime supply of Express bodysuits' would be our ultimate dream come true. Like most people, we gravitated towards the merchandising that seemed, from afar, to best fit our personal style. We scanned the store and started heading North towards a section that looked like it was the Southwestern/bohemian/seventies section of the store. While we walked we got that same five second rush as when we were teenagers, thinking "Oh, this is going to be fun." The piece that jumped out at us was an oversized fleece shawl/cape/jacket. First, when we picked it off of the rack, we realized the quality wasn't very good and then, we thought, 'Wait, I've seen this somewhere." Oh yeah, Ralph Lauren Fall 08. We put the shawl down, our excitement completely gone. The fact is, we thought as we were walking away, there's nothing totally original about a Southwestern print shawl in the first place. Furthermore, there's nothing particularly wrong with Zara adopting the garment simply because the fabrication (because of cost, no doubt) was so faraway from the Ralph Lauren version, that you couldn't even call it a knock-off. It's just, we suppose, not as much fun when you have to worry about the fact that someone out there will look at you and think, "Oh, she's got that RL knock off". It's kind of like someone saying "Oh, she's like a watered-down version of that other girl we know". Call us scarred, we don't think we're alone in this. The only person who should sport bootleg Ralph Lauren garments is your dad when he's wearing his weekend clothes only because it's all JC Penney circa 1970. That's our only concession.

On a grey, cold day like this one, it's appropriate to focus on our other senses for a dose of optimism. The new Ralph Lauren fragrance, Ralph Wild, was created by perfumer Linda Kramer. Although the ad campaign and the market work required to put out the new fragrance piques our interest, we thought it appropriate to speak with the perfumer behind this soon-to-be popular commodity. When working with an ever-reaching brand like Ralph Lauren, every aspect of that identity has to be considered. Translating these notions into fragrance, into notes, is a feat in and of itself. Our interview with Linda Kramer follows, and for more from the perfumer, and on perfume in general, look to our network partner The Scented Salamander, whose education on fragrance consistently makes for an interesting read.




Can you tell us a little bit about how you came to be a Perfumer?
I have been interested in fragrance since I was young. I went to private school where I wore a uniform and wasn’t allowed to wear make- up, so fragrance was the only true way I could express myself. Not only was I was obsessed with trying new fragrances, I loved reading the fashion magazines to see the fragrance ads – the beautiful, seductive women, the elegant, elaborate packaging, the exotic imagery. It amazed me how a blend of certain ingredients could not only smell great, but could completely transport you to another place. Once I finished high school, I attended a college with a fashion/beauty focus.


What aspects of the field are people unaware of?
I think people are unaware of the limitless amount of inspiration that surrounds each project. For example, with Ralph Wild (and all of our fragrances), what inspired me most is the fact that I work for such an iconic designer as Ralph Lauren. His vision guides the project from conception to completion. Another source of inspiration was our new model, Amanda. At the beginning of the project I watched a video of her taken at a photo shoot. The video captured Amanda playing Frisbee and having fun with the photographer and crew. She exudes this great energy and I found her fearless, feminine confidence very inspiring.


How long does it take to develop a perfume?
There are several steps in the process of developing a perfume. With Ralph Wild, The first step was to identify the key elements of the brand – This fragrance was designed to represent a girl who is spontaneous, fearless and confident. We also looked at the imagery and the color of the packaging. Based on all of these elements of Ralph Wild, it was clear to us that we needed to create a fragrance that would make a bold statement but would also tie in the Ralph Wild Girl’s personality and the color of the packaging.


How great a role do cultural changes play in the popularity or prevalence of particular scents? How does this dynamic inform your creations?
Right now there is a trend towards floral fragrances with juicy, fruity, edible nuances. Ralph Wild is so popular because the juicy, fruity notes and the warmth of the fragrance not only provide a feeling of playfulness and comfort, but has a nostalgic effect on us as well. These types of notes have the amazing ability to olfactively transport us back to the happy memories of our youth.

Oh, New York, you're so strange sometimes. Last night we faced the freezing New York streets and popped into the Rugby Store for some popcorn and red wine. Yes, there was a book signing. As far as that goes, there was a poster of the book. That was about it for the book part. We asked around but no one, not even the handsome RL gentlemen, knew where the writer had gone off to. Per the RL Rugby aesthetic there were a lot of nice smelling, smartly dressed gentlemen hanging around, letting their good manners and striped ties give off the kind of warmth that makes you consider moving to the Cape and sitting in front of a fireplace with a book for the rest of your life. Quite cozy, it was. In the end, it was perfectly fine that the inspiration for our attendance, namely, the book signing, was lost in the shuffle. Ralph Lauren employs some of the nicest, well mannered people, quite unlike many in the business. As far as we're concerned, soaking up that prep aesthetic and those beautiful manners is a fine way to spend a freezing Wednesday evening. That's why such events are thrown, just 'Let 'em soak up the lifestyle and they'll come running back for more'. You know, if this weather keeps up, we just might.

We also have impressive designer video interviews and original editorial spreads. May we cordially suggest perusing our selection? Enjoy New York Fashion Week Designer Video Interviews from Oscar De La Renta, Donna Karan for DKNY,Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Nicole Miller, Erin Fetherston, Ashleigh Verrier , Adam Lippes, James Coviello, John Varvatos , Monique Lhuillier, Joanna Mastroianni, Tory Burch, Neeam Khan

nostalgia

brace yourself

spin me

subversive

Everyone loves a trend story and hats were everywhere in New York. Ralph Lauren, Oscar De La Renta, Marc Jacobs, Temperely, James Coviello, Doo.Ri, and Jenni Kayne were all big on covering up on top. With politics like it is we wouldn't be surprised if keeping our heads covered is a precaution against the sky falling. Chicken Little anyone?