An Interview With Lori Ettlinger Gross

Community member Lori Ettlinger Gross, the blogger behind Jewel History, has just released Brooches: Timeless Adornment. The lush coffee table book is rich in both photographic and historical detail thanks to Ettlinger-Gross’ keen eye and sharp intellect. Her book is a fascinating portrait of one of accessories most charming subjects. Ettlinger Gross graciously answered our questions. We present our interview alongside images from the text.

How did you personally become fascinated with Brooches?
I’ve always loved them. They are, by far and away, the most versatile item in the jewelry box. I guess both my grandmothers got me started—they used to give me little pins to wear on the sweaters that I wore to school. As I got older, I began to appreciate them for all different reasons: they added glamor to basics, they were portable (I could toss one into my bag before I left for work and then wear it at night), in a pinch they function as a button would (very handy when a wardrobe malfunction presents itself) and now I am just fascinated by them. They are complete works of art unto themselves; they do not require the framework of the body to complete them.


It has often been said that one reason the handbag is so popular is because it allows any body type to enjoy it. The same is being said about hats and shoes now. Do you think we might see a renewed interest in the brooch?

They were all over the Fall runways, from Marc Jacobs to Ruffian. Scatter pins were huge. The nice thing about a brooch is that anyone can wear it, even a man! I have friends who wear a pin on their lapel —it’s a very elegant look when done right. I remember seeing an image of Andre Leon Tally wearing a gorgeous diamond feather brooch on the lapel of suit jacket-because of his six foot plus stature he pulled it off beautifully.

Actually I adore all of them, but in particular my grandmother’s brooch on page. 137.
Craftsmanship also features prominently in the book. What are some of jewelers and designers that we can look to for the best craftsmanship? And are there places we might be surprised to find something that is well done.

A lot of vintage pieces are made well; time was taken to create something lasting. Modern pieces by any of the major houses like VCA, Cartier, and Chopard are going to have a similar kind of quality.


Studio jewelers—and Aaron Faber Gallery in NY is the place to look for those—are making some wonderful pieces today. One name would be Michael Good, another would be Tod Pardon, Barbara Heinrich, Jeff & Susan Wise. These artisans are working today and creating lovely modern things.

Your book offers a fascinating historical portrait of brooches, can you take us through some of the most significant?

The Fibula was the first type of pin. Then the Sevigne or Ribbon bow brooch—a very, very decorative form that was worn on ball gowns.

The mourning pin—this was an openly sentimental expression worn at a time when emotions were more formal and reserved.The 1940s clip—very, very fashionable and so clever and practical. I wish they would bring these back in one form or another! Francis Mertens titanium pin—a whole new way to look at gemstones and metal.

What is your favorite way to use a pin to style an outfit?

I love to wear one on the waist of a skirt or near the collar of a dress; this is great way to place emphasis on the face or highlight the waist.

How can you use a pin to style an outfit if you have body flaws you want to hide? Or alternatively if you have something you want to accentuate!

With a pin, you always highlight the positive. Near the face is always a perfect choice, so is the lapel of a jacket but place it higher up near neck rather than lower by the bustline—I find that more flattering. If you have a small waist, that is another choice too. Hats and bags make an adorable canvas for pins; the body isn’t even a consideration. Pinning a gem-y pair to the thin straps of dress is a great way for any woman to highlight her shape—they really pop and offer a glamorous expression. I also love one worn on the low back of an evening dress or just above the slit of long gown—very Rita Hayworth. There aren’t very many don’ts with pins—there aren’t really any awkward shapes as with earrings or long lengths, as with necklaces to negotiate here which is what makes them so easy to do. A brooch is great for unusual necklines—like one shoulder dresses. Cate Blanchett did this at the Oscars, it was spectacular and yet so simple.


Can you ever over style using pins?

Not varying the sizes when you group them together on the lapel of jacket—it creates a clunky look. Smaller pins are better for this purpose anyway and are far more charming.

Large, expressive brooches deserve pride of place and one to three—depending on size, motif, etc.—should be the limit.

Summer is approaching, what is a fresh way to use a brooch for summer?

Carol Lombard Wearing Gem Dress Strap ClipsI absolutely love the idea of wearing them on the thin straps of a summer dress. It completely changes the look.

Brooches have been stereotyped as preferred by older women. What is your advice for younger women to keep it fresh? Or for that matter how can an older women wear them without fear?

For anyone, I would keep a close eye on the runway. Marc Jacobs did enormous pieces and Ruffian chose scatter pins. Scatter pins are easy, fun, lyrical, political, or cool --it all depends on the mix. I am partial to wearing a smattering of small or medium sized pins—it’s easy and ageless.

There is nothing to fear with a pin and everything to enjoy. You can take a pin that you wear everyday and put it on satin, denim, brocade, or a cotton t-shirt and pull the neckline to one side and pin it—creating a slightly winsome/seductive look—and it will never seem like you are wearing the same thing twice.

Women of every age can wear pins—experienced veterans know exactly what to do with them and what works for them and newbies should just dive in and experiment—that’s the fun part!

Now that we know anyone can wear a brooch successfully, What are your suggestions for essential pieces for the new brooch owner?

First rule (and only rule—the rest are suggestions. However this rule may NEVER be broken): Buy or collect what you love! Everything else is a waste of time and money. There are no essentials really… but I would advise when something strikes you, and it’s affordable, buy it. You may not see it again. Jewelry is personal, and choosing a pin/brooch is an expression of your style. If you love cameos, seek out the best you can afford. There are some fabulous vintage silver pieces out there that are still at bargain prices. Find something great and keep looking for others. Inspect the pin stem at the back, these can be repaired or replaced, but check it out before you make the purchase. Condition is everything; a scratched and dinged pin isn’t as much fun to wear as something that really looks cared for.

As for what people can collect? There are so many incredible choices, from enamel to plastic. It’s always nice to have something with sparkle or color—or both. Faux can be as dramatic as fine—I wear vintage paste (rhinestone) pieces all the time, mostly in the evening, but sometimes when you go to a special occasion during the day, they create a little bit of sparkle that’s appropriate. I especially love pins when they have a bail (loop) and can be worn as a pendants—that double duty is really convenient and expands the way you can wear them.