coutorture --

Fashion in 50 Seconds 7/10

coutorture — Thu, 10 Jul 2008 07:28:09 -0700

We are secretly somewhat satisfied that Steve and Barry's has declared bankruptcy. Not that we wish anyone any harm per say, but the idea that super cheap clothing endorsed by celebrities might not triumph over real design makes us feel better about the world.

Topshop seems to be missing the point of its existence. In August, the retailer will launch a premium denim area at its Oxford Circus flagship in London.

Capturing the newest hot fashion customer, Chinese Yuppies, is on every fashion retailers wish list. This is likely why Hong Kong Fashion Week was so big this year!

Fashion radio? Now as much as we love Jefferson Hack we aren't sure what good listening to him is going to do fashion being a visual medium and all.

Fashion In 50 Seconds 7/7

coutorture — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 07:04:13 -0700

French President Nicolas Sarkozy gave Giorgio Armani the Légion d'Honneur in Paris on Thursday.

Women's Wear Daily has an impressive interview with Oscar De La Renta and the house's CEO Alex Bolen. Topics on the table included the "state of de la Renta's $100 million wholesale business and their desire to be considered on par with world-famous European houses, the difficulties with licensed partners and where they see the company headed over the next several years." The biggest revelation? Oscar and Alex see no reason the house will ever be for sale.

Art and fashion! Art and fashion. Go together like horse and carriage. Hermés is at the Tate, Richard Price has bags with Louis Vuitton!

Also fashion photography is getting more respect as an art form with an exhibit at Photographer's Gallery in London.

Even the Australians are getting into the kicking counterfeiting butt thing.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 6/20/08

coutorture — Fri, 20 Jun 2008 06:07:44 -0700

Jane Sheperdson, former Topshop mogul, has begun designing for British retail chain Whistles. Sheperdson is attempting to re-imagine the Whistles aesthetic as 'classic', prompting comparisons of her work to See by Chloe and 3.1 Phillip LIm (two designers very popular among twenty-somethings). Her first collection, for Fall 08, will hit stores in September.

Gucci is poised to launch a new mens fragrance come September. Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme will become the first men's fragrance developed from scratch by Frida Giannini.

Diane Von Furstenburg, showed her Resort collection in Florence recently and took the concept of packing-light to it's farthest extreme. Inspired by a 'petite valise' she offered up flirty sun dresses and crisp trenches and all of the swimsuits and scarves to go with them. Prints consisted of flags and keys and stripes and other looks had the red, white, and blue motif we love so much for our mid-season getaways.

Another Urban Outffiters collaboration has been announced. This one with high end costume jewelry designer Lulu Frost. The line will be called Secret Garden and be comprised of five pieces, three necklaces and two earrings, that are loaded up with charms the designer is known for (except these aren't salvaged numbers from the sinage at the Plaza Hotel).

Fashion in 50 Seconds 6/19/08

coutorture — Thu, 19 Jun 2008 07:36:13 -0700

Adidas is taking Wal-Mart to court over those darn stripes. The sporting goods company recently filed a lawsuit against Payless for the same reason and received the largest sum ever awarded for trademark infringement (an estimated 305 million). It seems Adidas, the second largest sporting goods retailer in the world, is not hesitating to take Wal-Mart, the world's largest retailer, to battle. The two companies have had this discussion before, in 1995 and 2002, and in both cases Wal-Mart was asked to remove items from it's stock that were confusingly similar to those of Adidas. This time, Adidas is taking names.

Let's not forget that Miami Swim Week begins next month, after all, sportswear (as Resort has proven) has as much significance in this country as denim. So, Deisel will kick off the week of shows, and other cross-pollinating brands, like Australia's Zimmerman, will serve as a reminder of why a Mercedes-Benz sponsored swim week is necessary in the first place.

The black issue of Vogue Italia comes out next week and Cathy Horyn has leaked a glimpse at the contents with images and quotes from the participants. Hopefully this issue will stir up some dialogue, and poise the Spring shows to serve as an example of its impact.

The third installment of Summer Camp, a series of short videos by Bruce Webber for W Magazine, has surfaced on YouTube. There are models, there are school buses, there is Miami and, most notably, the best vintage store we've ever been to in our lives that we thought only our Moms knew about.

Fashion In 50 Seconds 6/13/08

coutorture — Fri, 13 Jun 2008 10:35:51 -0700

The Manhattan Jil Sander store is open today and if you're curious about its interior architecture, there are a few details of note. Namely, a wall of rotating mirrors. Hey, it's downtown New York! We don't have room for epicenters and whatnot.

Juicy Couture for Men is changing its name to Dirty English. To which we say, there's a men's line? No, really. Apparently this name is thought to capture the 'edginess' that the men's line has come to represent. We're not sure about edginess but we're pretty sure Dirty English is curiously (and appropriately) similar to Ugly American.

Topshop has been slated as the sponsor of all of the McCarren Park Pool events this summer. Staffers will be outfitted in Topshop's current offerings and 'style consultants' will be scouting the grounds and snapping photos of hipsters. This will probably double as style section of Topshop's U.S. ecommerce venture and research material for the next delivery of ripoffs.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 6/9

coutorture — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 00:14:16 -0700

We never much enjoyed spending time in malls but everyone's favorite fast fashion retailer Forever 21 is doing their best to change that. They have decided they are now large enough to anchor entire malls. We aren't quite sure they are Macy's material but really now that its all high low why don't we just have Forever 21 and Louis Vuitton co-anchor malls and get rid of Federated entirely?

Like we noted in Brian Reyes' collection, pastels are huge for cruise.

"Powerful men know how to dress themselves and often stick to a uniform. Each of the men in our list has given a teasing twist to traditional tailoring and made the look entirely their own." Esquire's fashion director, Catherine Hayward, said that all the men had been chosen for their idiosyncrasies.

Supermodels are back in fashion! No really, except its the same damn super models from last time around. Isn't there anyone from the new generation with a little personality?

Isaac Mizarhi makes his own hair pomade. We really love this man and not just because its 3am and we are writing these from JFK.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 6/3

coutorture — Tue, 03 Jun 2008 06:05:43 -0700

The CFDA 2008 Fashion Awards were last night. Reports on the event can be found in WWD, The AP, Marie Claire, Elle UK and Vogue.com.

The fabric of our lives could unravel under pressure from the World Trade Organization. The appellate body of the WTO on Monday rejected a U.S. challenge to a compliance panel decision that sided with Brazil in its claims the U.S. had not fully implemented judgments finding its cotton subsidies in breach of global rules. The ruling advances the prospects of Brazil imposing punitive tariffs against the U.S. of as much as $1 billion. That is a stiff price for such a soft fabric.

Jewel tones remain popular as the cruise market continues unabated. Versace, shown here, really goes with the trend.

There may be a downturn but people are still shopping online to the tune of a 35% retail increase.

Being green is important to American Apparel & Footwear Association. They had their first sustainability conference at the Fashion Institute of Technology last Thursday.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 6/2

coutorture — Sun, 01 Jun 2008 21:45:10 -0700

Designer Yves Saint Laurent passed away this Sunday at the age of 71. More coverage will obviously follow on Coutorture but we figured it should be in the round up. Reuters, CNN, The Guardian, The BBC, The International Herald Tribune, and the AP report.

Bergdorf Goodman Men unveiled their largest shop in shop in their retail history with a 1,600 Tom Ford boutique.

British denim line Lee Cooper is turning one hundred.

Proenza Schouler and Vicini SpA home of Giuseppe Zanotti are teaming up for a larger Proenza Schouler shoe offering and WWD finally has a photo to show off! Proenza Schouler shoes will retail for an average of $685, with pieces beginning in the $300s up to $3,000.

Fashion sucks in Washington D.C. Well, at least the respective Ann and Annes (Taylor and Klein) still battle it out there.
Just buy one great dress. Really! OK and lots of accessories to go with it to make it special.

Elie Tahari is launching a costume jewelry line.The Elie Tahari Empire Collection will be available in smoke, diamond and ruby hues. It will be sold at Elie Tahari's six boutiques in the U.S., as well as at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The pieces will retail at around $400.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/27

coutorture — Tue, 27 May 2008 06:42:29 -0700

It would seem that being nominated for a CFDA award just isn't enough anymore. Nominees are being given a book featuring Raquel Zimmermann in their various designs. Styled by Karl Templer and shot by Mikael Jansson, the keepsake came together under creative director Trey Laird. The book contains essays written by David Colman on all the honorees and abstract flower shots by Kenji Toma. This explains why the tables are so expensive at the benefit we imagine.

Russian oligarchs aren't being hit by the recession. Chanel is opening up its second Moscow boutique.

Cruise is so popular because of global warming. Every time a fashion writer pens this piece Al Gore sheds a tear and nobody gets their wings.

The Scottish Fashion Awards have released their list of nominees. We are gunning for Jonathan Saunders for designer personally and not just because he has a hot new collaboration in the works for Target's Go International. But our favorite award is for best use of Tartan by an international designer.

We love that it is news when a designer decides to go back to a traditional two show a year fashion schedule.

The house of Blass is under pressure as NexCen looks to sell. Potential buyers being floated are Designer Licensing Holdings, Windsong Brands, Tharanco Group, headed by Haresh Tharani, and Iconix Brand Group. And what of poor Peter Som? It looks like he can keep his own line just fine. Richard Baker, ceo of NRDC Equity Partners, isn't interested in buying the Blass business, said a spokeswoman for Baker. NRDC owns Lord & Taylor and Creative Design Studio, and also has invested in numerous designers, including Peter Som, who designs Blass' women's line as well as his own.

Lutz and Patmos collaborate with a train conductor? No it isn't a joke or a publicity stunt. Amtrak conductor Chris Waugh became friends with Lutz as she rode the train to her Rhode Island home and the Shoreliner sweater was born. Named after the East Coast train, the $495 hoodie sweater, which has five buttons on the side and raglan sleeves is being sold to benefit Parkinson's Disease Foundation

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/21

coutorture — Wed, 21 May 2008 06:00:58 -0700

Stella McCartney will show a collection at the Liverpool Institute for Performing Arts on June 1. The show is part of a program that will celebrate Liverpool as the European capital of culture in 2008.

Proenza Schouler continues resort season with a collection inspired by loungewear and layering. WWD calls it a collection full of contrast: "masculine, slouchy suit in delicate silk paired with a structured linen coat, and a flimsy checkered beaded dress layered over pajama pants."

Yigal Azrouël is opening a destination store in Water Mill New York. We have no clue where Water Mill is located.

Marc Jacobs thinks Tom Ford was a preppy back in the day. We say Tom Ford can be however he wants to be.

Apparel trends are still dismal. And we mean finances not the actual clothing.

In Soviet Russia Gap clothing wears you! No really, the Gap is opening in Russia thanks to a franchising agreement with Fiba Holding AS.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/19

coutorture — Mon, 19 May 2008 07:16:13 -0700

Aesthetes, Bohemians & Craftsmen opens at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles.

Chicago may have had a few embarrassing moments with a ersatz fashion week that never was, but that isn't stopping the city's ambitions. The School of The Art Institute of Chicago is beefing up its fashion program. It has announced a new master's degree in fashion design and simultaneously unveiled newly renovated studio space housing facilities for fabric development and manipulation as well as a shoe, millinery and accessories laboratory.

V is for profit. Both Versace and Valentino Group reported sales growth in the first quarter.

Pain at the pump isn't that funny of a joke when it means higher shoe prices. Guess its getting just as expensive to hoof it as to drive.

Vera Wang isn't afraid of a little economic downturn. She wants to open more stores.

Despite Marc Jacob's best efforts somehow the world has not gotten past Warhol yet. Interview Magazine isn't so big on reinventing itself it would seem.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/14

coutorture — Wed, 14 May 2008 06:36:40 -0700

Barney's CEO Howard Socol has parted ways with the beloved retailer. The industry veteran was rumored to be unhappy with the direction that the Dubai state investment fund Istithmar was taking Barneys after its August acquisition of the company from Jones Apparel Group.

Brooks Brothers is hitting the greens as clothing sponsor of the PGA's Stanford St. Jude Championship in Memphis next month, including the presentation of a championship jacket - part of its first effort to market the 190-year-old brand in national sports settings.

Liz Claiborne had a first quarter loss.

Buyers beware indeed! Specialty stores' open-to-buys might be holding steady, but at this month's Moda Manhattan and FAME trade shows, buyers reported they are looking more before making decisions.

Short people ain't got no reason to live? Well apparently Big and Tall stores are now making way for short and petite stores for men like Jimmy Au's For Men 5'8". Call it the hipster influence.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/13

coutorture — Tue, 13 May 2008 06:00:35 -0700

Cruise season has officially begun! Fendi, Escada and Elie Tahari showed off a few of their designs to Women's Wear Daily. Karl Lagerfeld went straight to the 70s for inspiration but thankfully kept things clean at Fendi. Escada was a little more scattered but played it safe with color. Tahari went with florals.

Chanel is taking over Miami with its preparations to show their Cruise collection on Thursday. Chanel is launching a widget the day after the show. It will allow Chanel fans to view clips from the show as well as interviews. Taking the bloggers right out of the equation.

Burberry will open a boutique in Cannes just in time for the film festival.

Bottega Veneta is releasing an eyewear line.

Dov Charney, CEO and Chairman of American Apparel, was honored as Retailer of the Year at the 15th Annual Michael Awards for the Fashion Industry.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/12

coutorture — Mon, 12 May 2008 06:15:38 -0700

This Saturday was World Fair Trade Day, a time for fashionistas everywhere to feel guilty about their fast fashion habits. Except for British shoppers who now have the Oxfam Sustainable Fashion Boutique to enjoy. The new shops will sell items created out of donated goods, Fairtrade clothing and accessories made by volunteers as well as the more traditional second-hand clothing.

But there are dissenters in the eco-fashion movement. Some people are still happy to claim it just isn't very stylish. Community partner Susie Bubble however thinks its all just a bit too shiny.

It seems like the Valentino brand isn't quite as dramatic as the post He Who Will Not Be Named years at Gucci. In fact, after the retirement of Valentino the house seems positively bullish. Ironically no one felt that great about Alessandra Facchinetti at Gucci. Musical chairs anyone?

Mulberry is into collaborations. They have artists collaborations planned for each month this summer (this month was flower arrangements with neighbor McQueen's) the most anticipated of which is surely going to be The Artist's Tote, a collaboration with Fred Gallery on Vyner Street where five artists will interpret the Mulberry tote.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/7

coutorture — Wed, 07 May 2008 07:38:02 -0700

Barney's and Target is a match made in heaven, at least in these tough economic times. Target is having trouble with same-store sales as its customers forgo superfluous purchases i.e fashion for toilet paper. Barney's is having a tough time selling 2,000K Lanvin dresses in second city markets. Thus somehow we have Target Co-Op. Not quite contemporary, still quite alluring and very easy to market.

We did not know that Golf Digest has a fashion editor. Apparently his name is Martin Hackel and he has a hard time educating the golf pros on things on well fitting polos and pants. We sense an opportunity for the Ralph Lauren folks!

The Dior phone has been confirmed. Christian Dior said this week it would launch a signature cell phone, in partnership with Paris-based mobile specialist ModeLabs. The fashion phone will be unveiled May 21 at the Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne.

Donna Karen and DKNY are getting in bed with Maidenform. Starting for Spring 2009 Maidenform will have the liscening rights to produce Ms Karen's innerwear.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/5

coutorture — Mon, 05 May 2008 06:30:47 -0700

Today is fashion's favorite holiday with the Benefit Gala for the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute. Superheros: Fashion and Fantasy is sure to be quite a kick and we personally can't wait to get to the museum this morning for the press preview. We have a few lovely preview photos thanks to Women's Wear Daily. Fun random fact, Harold Koda was inspired by Michael Chabon’s “The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay,” metaphysical take on super powers. Chabon has contributed an essay on Unitard Theory in the show’s accompanying book.

Government funded fashionistas are having a tough time in Scotland.

Nautical fashion remain a perennial summer trend. Thus boat shoes and stripes mean you can't go wrong.

As much as we love The Economist's Big Mac Index as the cutest example of purchasing power parity we sort of think the Hermes Tie Index might be a lot sexier.

The aesthetics of science makes for some very compelling patterns. Tory Burch better watch her back because these horse methaemoglobin textiles are perfect for a little summer dress. And no we aren't joking even one bit.

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Fashion in 50 Seconds 5/2

coutorture — Fri, 02 May 2008 06:00:16 -0700

Is there anything sexier than a slim man in high fashion? Apparently the answer is no if you are pretty boy jockey Walter Blum who favors Prada loafers and and Versace shirts. We love a man that makes his living in chaps though. But with the Kentucky Derby this weekend Blum will be wearing silk. Racing silks!

Is Heidi Slimane for Diesel a real possibility? Rumour has it that Diesel may be preparing to launch a Red Collection to be designed by Slimane. The man who gave us the skinny jean really should end up at the home of all high priced denim yet accessible denim.

What on earth was Domenico Dolce doing buying Shelly Steffee clutches? And why the heck couldn't he get it wholesale?

Is Martin Margiela selling out? Well we haven't noticed a collaboration with H&M, Uniqlo or the Gap yet so we are going to say no. But being owned by Renzo Rosso means better investment which means people are bound to get catty once the accessories start selling better than the clothing.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 4/30

coutorture — Wed, 30 Apr 2008 06:44:16 -0700

No one likes to play around with the pricing of fashion more than pricey boutiques. Or at least that appears to be the joke at Colette with their two armor suits on display in the window made from destroyed Marakami bags. Its a collaboration between Andrea Crews and Tokyo-based French artist Item Idem and the set designer A. Bertin & Fils Ltée. It's about reappropriating the empire," said Maroussia Rebecq, the creative director of Andrea Crews. Commenting on fashion's arbitrary approach to pricing, one suit retails for around $11,000, while the other is half-price, she said.

Parson's raised 2 million dollars at their benefit on Monday. Tuition is still pretty pricey though.

Though Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz did let it be known that he was designing a denim line with Acne jeans at the benefit. The only way Acne denim could get more expensive has now been revealed!

Lord and Taylor wants to expand overseas. Considering that the venerable retailer isn't doing so hot in the domestic market we aren't sure if this is a great idea or retail suicide.

Fashion designers continue to not be politically savvy. Australian designer Kate Sylvester showed her collection Royally Screwed with models decked in war medals such as the New Zealand Operational Service Medal. She had to apologize. Much head shaking ensued.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 4/28

coutorture — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:15:57 -0700

Bill Blass BagsBill Blass is expanding into handbags . Rejoice as Peter Som gives fashionistas "luxurious timeless pieces" in alligator, crocodile, stingray, python and ostrich

Consumer confidence damned! Middle class women are apparently still stupid enough to be concerned with fashion trends in a recession. Seriously ladies, from one fashionista to another it really doesn't matter. Don't be suckered in by the silver lamé J.Crew shirt. Really, it just screams fashion victim.

Men A La Mode Clothing
Men apparently like shopping online just as much as women. And no we don't mean for gadgets. They are shopping for clothing. Though with sites like Men A La Mode we aren't totally sure its not secretly for cruising.

The Associated Press thinks parasols are a fashion trend. Well call us Eliza Doolittle!

Backstage at Kirrily JohnAustralian Fashion Week has begun with some fanfare despite protests by designers that it is too expensive to show. Ahhh IMG you sure know how to get designers to love you! Not too pricey for Kirrily John or Nicola Finetti

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Fashion in 50 Seconds 4/24

coutorture — Thu, 24 Apr 2008 05:13:45 -0700

Apparently women are no longer allowed to dress to impress. The dress is now officially over much to the chagrin of trend forecasters and mid-market contemporary trade shows. Everyone's favorite Elle editor Anne Slowey has declared “The dress has been done to death." She was however careful to add “not to sound really cliché.” Yes we imagine the dress has been done to death because like pants, shirts, and skirts it is a staple. So the cycle continues.

You might also want to avoid mentioning the dress is dead to junior retailers. Mod dresses and jumpers are going to be all the rage!

Wal-Mart still doesn't how how it feels about being a discount retailer despite George and Metro 7 flopping with their high priced $30 Mark Eisen creations. Its jumping back on the fashion band wagon with partnerships with Jones Apparel Group's l.e.i brand and Iconic Brand Group's Op. Somehow this involves advertising in magazines like Lucky and Cosmo using people we don't really know (apparently Kristin Cavallari and Pete Wentz). People so removed from our worldview we aren't even sure if this violates our no celebrity policy by mentioning them or not.

Chicago is having fashion week troubles. Apparently the city was supposed to fashion week style events last Wednesday, called Chicago Fashion Week, that were canceled at the last minute. These are not to be confused with Mayor Daly officially sanctioned fashion week called Fashion Focus Chicago which happens in September. Seems hiring a fashion czar Melissa Gamble hasn't done much for the second city. Which is too bad because we think models walking underneath Anish Kapoor's Egg in Millennium Park would be awesome.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 4/30

coutorture — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:00:15 -0700

Parson's raised 2 million dollars at their benefit on Monday. Tuition is still pretty pricey though.

Lord and Taylor wants to expand overseas. Considering that the venerable retailer isn't doing so hot in the domestic market we aren't sure if this is a great idea or retail suicide.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 4/18

coutorture — Fri, 18 Apr 2008 06:00:44 -0700

Chanel beauty is on everyone's radar these days. Yesterday it was their limited Los Angeles nail lacquer collection and today its their emphasis on gold for fall that is making cover at Women's Wear Daily. The collection includes Gold Fiction, a softly shimmering nail polish, $30; Facettes D’Or, a finely milled gold loose powder that reads on the skin as a subtle glow, $56; Gold Light Glossimer lip gloss, $26; Rouge Hydrabase lipstick shades in copper, plum and coral, each $27, and a quad eye shadow palette with gold, coffee, ivory and dark green eye colors, $56. Marketers are hoping the gold nail polish will be the new black but Beauty Creative Director Peter Philips doesn't seemed inclined to admit it.

Though with the problems facing European beauty brands with exports given the weak dollar perhaps Chanel shouldn't get too excited about this new it nail color. The Cosmoprof trade fair save a meager 1% growth.

We have bikinis on our mind in a bad way now as lingerie designer Damaris Evans is launching a swimwear line Mimi Holliday Swim. Her sophisticated lingerie is sure to make the transition to poolside easily after a season being tested in Ibiza. We sure wouldn't mind having that job.

Curiously sexual college wear purveyor Ambercrombie and Fitch's younger sibling abercrombie is getting a store on Fifth Avenue in the space being vacated by Brook's Brothers. The venerable preppy retailer didn't feel the high profile location did justice to its traditional Madison Avenue ways. Thus ceding the territory to someone who wants a big glass box that will be easy to funnel tourists in and out of. After all shopping in a big box store in Manhattan that you can shop anywhere is so much more fun right?

Fashion cross-platform branding continues to get weirder and weirder. Tommy Hilfiger has TommyTV and now Diesel's radio station D-U-M Radio (short for Diesel-U-Music) will be broadcasting live from the UK's New Cross and on Diesel.com from May 4th through the 30ths. Something involving some band was also mentioned.

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Fashion in 50 Seconds 4/17

coutorture — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 08:28:24 -0700

Everyone loves a papal visit, even lapsed Catholic fashionistas. Everyone adores inspecting the footwear of Pope Benedict XVI and it would seem that this trip to America is no exception for the fashion faithful. Pope Benedict is bringing sexy back, or at least the tradition of red loafers. The conservative pope hopes to bring back a more traditional Catholicism but we say if it looks this good then we might be able control ourselves. "Mea Culpa! Forgive me father for I have sinned. I wore brown loafers!"

Perfume bloggers are having their day in the sun with a feature in the New York Times! Congrats guys

And active wear no longer means sweat pants. Surprise surprise that sleek silhouettes are popular even when you are out for a jog. We assume after all that is why you are out for a jog in the first place.

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