coutorture --

An Ode To Mayle: Shop It

coutorture — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:34:59 -0700

With news that fashion brand, Mayle, is closing down after Resort/Holiday 09, we think a spread is due. Perhaps you've only loved the Mayle aesthetic from afar, perhaps you've indulged in every smart frock and pair of trousers from previous seasons, or perhaps the brand hasn't meant much to you until now. Either way, we have a feeling these last deliveries will mean much more to many of us. To think, just last week we wrote up an immaterial about a shearling caplet that is part of the Fall 08 collection. Little did we know it would be one of Mayle's last quirky offers. If anything, this should stand as an example of how difficult is is to run a fashion business in general, and how the contemporary companies in particular, often get thrown the wolves if they don't peddle their clothing properly and act as total slaves to the buyers (who have peddle on their own accord). It's not easy, especially in our current economic climate, to endure the season-less demands of the contemporary shopper. Jane Mayle, in her conversation with WWD, referenced perfumery and home goods as being her next endeavor so we're sure we haven't seen the last of that magpie/indie girl aesthetic. That said, it's still the end of a clothing line beloved by many young burgeoning chicsters. Below, our spread of Mayle from Spring 08 (all on sale) and Fall 08 (just delivered). If you shop only for the sake of archiving, we won't blame you.

Barney's Warehouse Sale: Skip The Madness

coutorture — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 12:27:52 -0700

Sometimes the chaos just isn't worth the effort, and sometimes you've not choice anyway. Our New York colleagues over at Racked are providing live coverage of the Barney's warehouse sale and as much as we love to drop the New York-centric post now and again, we realize not everyone has access to the madness. That said, when we scoped out what Barneys had to offer online, the 60% off or more options were plentiful. Below, check out our spread of the best from that category. Between the Maison Martin Margiela Cork Knee Boots, marked down to $355 from $895, to the Lanvin Large Peplum Bag, marked down to $789 from almost two thousand, it's clear there are still some non-warehouse goodies to be had. Just be warned that a link is only a link for a day or two. Much of what we'd put into a wishlist for ourselves has gone out-of-stock either because it was moved to the sale or because it sold out overnight. Such is the nature of sample sales, both online and in warehouses. Pick up something for yourself today and call it an ode to the Fall season and a looming fashion week, where cork boots and Lanvin purses will come in handy.

Transparency Trends For Spring 09

coutorture — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 12:27:24 -0700

We've been trying to imagine the Spring 09 trends the way a seven year old shakes their presents under the christmas tree. Transparency is one we've been thinking about. Transparency, the break-out trend for Spring 08, has pushed on strongly enough. We predict the numbers will be high come Spring 09. The trend-forecasting seminars always tell you that the trends for next season are the same as they were two seasons previous. No miraculous discoveries--just summaries of what, because of various websites, we've seen plenty of already. So our thoughts on transparency aren't unsupported. Just in case a little evidence is needed, however, here's some of what we've seen since Spring 08.

Fall is a season that calls for heavier layers and so transparency is necessarily peripheral because of its impracticality. We did, however, see plenty of it crop up on evening frocks and on blouses that could be easily layered. Ashleigh Verrier used it on feminine frocks that were made season-appropriate by way of fur stoles and thick hosiery. On the darker side of things Alexander Wang used it on shell tanks and leggings in many of his Fall looks and Preen (shown left) used transparency despite every other aspect of the collection being wintery perfection.

Then came Resort and with warmer weather; more freer usage of the textile. Christian Dior used generous portions of transparency for his cruise ship-worthy evening gowns. Chanel, on the other hand, stuck to mini-frocks that were prefect for the Miami-staged runway show. Calvin Klein (shown right), our favorite by far, showed a few examples of transparency in the colorless, structured collection.

Finally menswear came along and gave us the duds that will sit on the other side of the boutique and closet and dresser drawer to ours, come Spring 09. Transparency--check. We saw it unabashed and blazing from Givenchy, we saw it in lace from Yohji Yamamoto, and from Costume National (shown left) masquerading as a normal work shirt--complete with blazer and tie.

We think it's time to stop shaking the present now. We're pretty sure we know what we're getting when it's time to open the gifts. You never know though, like when you're a kid, there's always one that surprises you...

The Sun Doesn't Care Photo Shoot

coutorture — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 07:52:57 -0700

For today's original Coutorture editorial, our lack of inspiration was our, er, inspiration. It's been a steady ninety degrees, sample sale season has been in full swing for months, the fall clothing has yet to deliver, and Spring fashion week is not yet upon us--time has been kind of dragging by. Top that off with a recession and being located in a city predominately void of air conditioning and you've landed yourself in crazy town. Lately we've been wearing our one-piece bathing suit to work (with shorts of course) and broken the cardinal rule of never wearing havaianas beyond the deli on our block. Yes, it has been that bad. We're sure most of you are right there with us.

After our poolside shoot we had not much left we felt really excited about, save for the editorials that will crop up closer to Fall (i.e. next month). Shortly thereafter, we saw this dress and a light bulb appeared over our heads. Yes, ombre would save us. Ombre has been a trend for a couple of seasons now and, in truth, it's not really going anywhere. Editorializing ombre might be a bit boring, if it weren't that it makes the perfect analogy to our current situation. What happens to your perfectly constructed style when the forces of nature (and/or the economy) are fighting against you? Well, it fades away...

Trend de La Creme Does It Again

coutorture — Tue, 10 Jun 2008 07:14:36 -0700

For today's Trend de la Creme for Coutorture comparison gallery, we bring you Temperley Spring 08 as likened to African tribal masks. What, you didn't anticipate the connection? Don't worry about it, neither did we. What we did see in one of our favorite collections from Spring 08, was a nod to Fitzgerald and the French Riviera, a palate that used the nudes and poppy colors that were so on-target for the season, with breathtaking glamour. The prints in this collection were Art Deco inspired, and the body skimming silhouettes and conservative lengths of Temperley's frocks, likewise referenced the elegance of the 1920's and 30's. Trend de la Creme, however, was inspired by a cultural comparison more align with actual spirits, than that of Fitzgerald in the French Riviera. Her likening this collection to African tribal masks makes sense because of the earthy palate and clean lines found in the pleats and patterns of Temperley's Spring frocks. These masks, that is, had a similar geometric quality that signaled a relationship that is, although unexpected, undeniably present.

Immaterial: Lyell Rompers

coutorture — Mon, 19 May 2008 08:24:18 -0700

We popped into the Lyell shop yesterday afternoon and marveled at Emma Fletcher's delicate lacy-things. As usual the little silk blouses and dresses caught our eye from the street, drawing us in by hanging in perfect lines above the worn out black and white tile floor. This Spring 08, Fletcher decided to try her hand at rompers, though per her aesthetic, in the most delicate and tasteful way possible. The romper, that is, is worn as a layer (think lingerie/bodysuit) and blouses perfectly when paired with her high waist trousers and shorts. It's just about the sexiest thing to strip down to, should you find yourself running into a lake under moonlight. Or, you know, just hanging out in your apartment. Check our gallery with some Spring 08 look book shots and an e-commerce spread, below.

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Adam Striped Square Neck Kimono Dress

coutorture — Tue, 13 May 2008 07:09:34 -0700

Adam Lippes, hottest designer on the block (and most popular) gives us a summer frock we vote 'Best All Around'. It gets this superlative for the simple reason that it's a summer dress that doesn't make us gag (the saturation point has been reached to say the least) and because the kimono style sleeves and bodice would most likely suit a variety of body types. For his Spring 08 collection, Lippes did what he does best, that is, classy Hamptons gear (or otherwise luxurious vacation spot) for smart women who have money (and have had it for a while). It's curious that Lippes makes us feel this way because his price point is more or less contemporary (the Stripe Square Neck Kimono Dress at $285) but we suspect the psychology is similar to that of which we associate with Ralph Lauren. That is, the clothes are distinctly American and, as far as we know, the only Americans who really dress like Americans and do it well are those that temporarily reside in places like The Hamptons or Aspen. So we associate his clothes with high price points even though, funnily enough, they are mildly affordable. For more of the Spring 08 Adam collection, check out our gallery below.

Trend de la Creme For Coutorture: Three As Four Spring 08

coutorture — Mon, 12 May 2008 06:24:42 -0700

Three As Four's Gabi, Adi, and Ange seem to be the mascots of downtown New York. Last week alone we spotted the designers (two at a time, if not all three) at the Superheros: Fashion & Fantasy press conference, the Rogan store opening party, and then on Saturday, at the Absolutely Venomous Accurately Fallacious (Naturally Delicious) event at the Deitch Gallery. Even though they've made it the tents, they sure know how to act like hipsters and show up to every party that sounds remotely interesting. Funnily enough, our network partner, Trend de la Creme (formerly Trendinista), decided to use the Spring 08 collection for this week's installment of the Trend de la Creme For Coutorture comparison series. The collection pleased both camps of Three As Four followers, providing their more traditional fashionistas with graceful eveningwear while, at the same time, keeping their avant-fans satisfied with the asymmetrical pattern work they've built their name on. It's no wonder then that Trend de la Creme saw a likeness in starfish; beautiful and somehow dangerous at the same time, there's something all-encompassing (and omni-present) about the designers.

Friday Video Indulgence: Sonia Rykiel Spring 08

coutorture — Fri, 25 Apr 2008 08:57:17 -0700

Everything about the Spring 08 collection by Sonia Rykiel gives us chills. The show began with 70's inspired brights, a yellow head wrap that is the 'hats are back' poster product if there ever were one and then, then there was the grand finale. With 'Paint It Black' playing in the background, feathers floating in the air, barefoot models slinking down the running, twirling, all smiles, Rykiel really gave the industry a run for their money. Nothing was more cool than these chiffon maxi dresses, nothing more nude, more transparent, more sexy (i.e. nothing more representative of what would be the major trends of the season) than this. And even if there was an air of rock n' roll, a wink at acid tripping hippies, the angelic sweetness of these garments made it all seem very fun if slightly innocent. For our Friday Video Indulgence, check out the Spring 08 Rykiel runway show and, what we thought of when we first saw this collection, the trailer to the Virgin Suicides. If this season ends up anything like Rykiel's collection, it's going to be one hot summer.

Spring Trends: Colored Denim

coutorture — Mon, 21 Apr 2008 12:42:08 -0700

It's a very simple formula, an old time favorite covered up with the trend du jour. Denim never goes out of style and so, with all of the bright colors that cropped up in the Spring 08 shows (see Lanvin, Jil Sander, and Marc Jacobs) the necessary (accessible) trend that's pitched to the masses is bright colored denim. It's the affordable staple with a Lanvin spin, if you will. It makes for a nice collage if you're a glossy and brightens up your look book if you're a denim brand. Everybody's happy. For the consumer, admittedly, it's also a fun trend to play around with. 'You say there's a recession coming on? I'm sorry, I can't hear what your saying, MY YELLOW JEANS ARE JUST TOO LOUD!' We're not going to rag on a little bit of color, even if this trend is so easy to pinpoint. We're down with it, and below, a spread of our favorites. For more on denim, check out our recent Garmento article where we went straight to the source.

Immaterial: Zac Posen Strapless Bubble Dress

coutorture — Wed, 16 Apr 2008 19:50:02 -0700

Okay, granted, it's a bubble dress. But, like anything, exceptions must be made. This Zac Posen Strapless Bubble Dress is actually, as the silhouette goes, on the acceptable side. The print follows that ubiquitous 'art-inspired' trend that's been rammed down our throats all season, though 'art-inspired' is better than most trends as far as we're concerned. There's something decidedly metaphysical going on here, where it could have easily been psychedelic (afterall, it's tie-died). See the Zac Posen Spring 08 collection below, where prarie met the big blue sky, right in the middle of the Bryant Park tents.

Click for more Immaterial

Richard Chai's Spring 08 Collection

coutorture — Wed, 16 Apr 2008 07:45:32 -0700

Designer Richard Chai's collection was one of our favorites from the Spring shows. Now that deliveries are being made, and the season is upon us, we thought to recap the collection that wooed us back in September. Chai, who worked under Marc Jacobs and label Tse (he turned Tse right around), launched his own collection back in 2004. He is known for his intricate details and special fabric choices. This Spring 08 Chai showed the kind of sporty silks that we love from designers like Calvin Klein, or on the more avant garde side of things, Helmut Lang. It is a wearable collection that would flatter women of all ages, potentially explaining why this year's collections were picked up by Bergdorf and the like. Our favorite aspect of the collection were the trousers. Right on point with this relaxed mid-section thing that's been sweeping through fashion, the trousers were mostly high-waisted, moved like water, and had a fold-over waistband that pulled in the look (reminding us the wearer has a waistline). Check out our video and gallery of the Spring 08 collection as well as links to Fall, below.

Click for Richard Chai's Fall 08 collection

Immaterial: Missoni Chain-Strap Patio Dress

coutorture — Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:26:47 -0700

We are giving this Missoni Chain-Strap Patio Dress props for being a decidedly non-twenty something frock. It's not often that you browse through designer offerings and think, 'Wow, I'm definitely going to wear that when I get older'. That is, most fashion makes you feel just the opposite. Leave it to Missoni, the domestic embodiment of beauty at every age, to create this dress that inspires us to daydream about our glamorous 65 year old selves. The scoop neck dress is fully lined with side pockets, it even comes with a sash. It could, of course, be worn well at any age, we just happen to like the fact that it's mature, flattering, and vibrant enough for a women with slightly more experience.

Click for more Immaterial

Platinum Blonde Life Shoutout: Tsumori Chisato

coutorture — Mon, 14 Apr 2008 13:38:52 -0700

The Tsumori Chisato Spring 08 ad campaign could easily double as a Pantene Pro-V advertisement. Our network partner, Platinum Blonde Life, tuned us onto the Surface to Air produced campaign. Chisoto's print-centric, bohemian designs have been rallied into advertisement by the team at Surface to Air for some seasons now. The Parisian creative agency organizes everything from ad campaigns to trade shows. Their work with Japanese designer, Tsumori Chisato is consistently rich with color and movement. This season, the campaign was inspired by jellyfish and underwater textures. Check out Platinum Blonde Life's report on this collaboration and our gallery of the campaign below.

Click for more Shoutouts