coutorture --

OAK Bondage Pop-Up

coutorture — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 09:52:14 -0700

We're sure many of you are swept up with Fashion Week happenings, but there's a pop-up to consider. Eponymous boutique OAK is hosting the limited edition designs of the hottest names in independent fashion for an event they're calling "Bondage" to celebrate their newest brick and mortar opening on Bond Street. For a few special days you can pick up designs by Vena Cava, Form, LD Tuttle, Complex Geometries, and Unconditional (see left for a complete list) all of which play with the notion of bondage from various conceptual perspectives. What's more, one of your editors has a side project with designer Stephanie Draves we once editorialized called boyfriend, and these designs will be included in the project. OAK is busy photographing the designer offerings this morning so, even if you're not in New York, you can buy them online later in the week. We'll keep you posted, and if you're in New York, be sure to stop by Bond Street for the opening reception. Meanwhile, some just-delivered fall goodies from the store, below. Update: See below for photo leaks of the limited edition items!

Michael Kors Where He Belongs

coutorture — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 10:33:15 -0700

Michael Kors is moving overseas by opening 25 collection stores in Europe, starting with one in Milan. To which we say, whaa, Michael Kors, lover of jetsetting advertisements and perpetual tans, doesn't have any collection stores in Europe? Are we the only one's who just assumed he did? Anyway, this first space in Milan is taking over the Viktor and Rolf store (Viktor & Rolf just sold stake to Deisel) and opens on September 23rd. Another twist in the story is that Kors is opening a Palm Beach boutique shortly thereafter and Kors himself acknowledged that the venture is a head-scratcher to most people, "A lot of people look at me and say, ‘You don’t have a store in Palm Beach?’ So much of our clientele spends a good part of the winter season there. It’s really our first resort store. I have always loved designing resort and things that have a resort mentality, and Palm Beach is one of the few places left on earth where a jeweled $800 bikini is a basic.”. We don't watch Project Runway but we've always loved Kor's articulate and humorous sound bites. Of his Chicago store opening he said, “I am a camel hair and gray flannel kind of guy and Chicago is a camel and gray flannel kind of town.". Which basically makes us love him. Below, some spring and fall offerings from the designer.

Click here to see the Michael Kors Fall 08 collection

Built By Wendy Grows Up And Gets A Real Job

coutorture — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 08:16:02 -0700

Our obsession with talking to people about Built by Wendy has become pathological. It's not the brand, specifically, it's more the conceptual vantage point we've been mulling over. It started a few weekends back when, on our way to Opening Ceremony, we stopped in the store, to which we had never been. We perused the racks, it was more expensive than we remembered. Three hundred dollars for a cotton bomber or a cotton poplin dress? Curious. Well, we can say for sure that what you have there is a firmly placed contemporary price point but what makes the defining tricky is when you look at the clothing quality and the basic premise on which the company was first built. Built by Wendy always cost just a little bit less than contemporary which was its essential draw. The point was "Hey check out these clothes that look kind of like they're from A.P.C. but cost a little bit less. They look homespun which means, if you really wanted to, you could make them yourself." Now, really, Built by Wendy is not able to put 'cost effective' on its resume. So, can the clothing hold its own? Well, sure. It's just not very much fun is all. We don't blame anyone, we know it's hard to make money as a designer and finance a business in this economy, we just miss the old days when it felt like Wendy was building those frocks so that we didn't have to spend three hundred dollars on them.

E-Commerce Goodies

coutorture — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 07:40:33 -0700

OAK, who threw quite a party to celebrate the return of menswear and the Capsule trade show, is now having a huge sample sale. If you can't make it over to their Brooklyn and Soho locations, you can still find those markdowns online. From Staerk to Opening Ceremony this summer's duds are sharp and worth a late-summer investment. We happen to think the way OAK shoots products for their site is quite revolutionary. From our days working in e-commerce we know that the most important thing, above all, is to depict the garment as realistically as possible. That means thinking about scale, color, texture, fit, and movement in one single picture. In addition to this cardinal rule, you want to make sure that the consumer can relate to the product, can see themselves wearing it. That means booking models whose look fits your identity as a site. OAK, in our mind, wins on both accounts. They're shots show the garment in motion (and in additional views, stationary), giving us a real feeling for what the garment really looks like in 'real life'. Secondly, they leave the model's faces out of the frame, encouraging us to imagine wearing the garment and leaving out the kind e-commerce celebrity factor that sites like Shopbop thrive on. They book girls with, let's face it, 'ideal' proportions but we happen to know that these gals are not signed girls. That means they are not necessarily 5' 11" and size zero. They might be slim, they might be leggy, but they sure aren't emaciated nor are they super-human tall. In other words, shop on. This is an online sample sale we wholeheartedly endorse.

Hidden Agenda Or High/Low Heaven?

coutorture — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 10:15:40 -0700

Adora, the new store opening in Manila, scored prime time real estate in the retail section of WWD today. Why is that? Because they've all the niceties of a luxury goods store (lavish interior, hang tags with four figures) but with a slight affordable-accessible slant. Our question: is this so revolutionary? Adora carries brands like Jil Sander, Marni, Missoni, and Chloe in addition to a more affordable line called Tyler (among a few others) which prices garments in the hundreds, rather than the thousands. Tyler, funnily enough, is owned by the same company that backed the store in the first place; Republic Retailers. The article goes on to say that Adora also mixes high/low by carrying Diane Von Fursterburg's lower priced line, H. Stern, in addition to handbags and clutches made locally, from exotic skins. To us, this is just a plain 'ol department store carrying everything from thousand dollar trousers to fifty dollar tank tops. If Adora supports local artisans by stocking luxurious handbags were pretty sure they wouldn't be sold for anything less than what they're 'worth' (i.e. quite a lot). We're all about finding a variety of price points under one roof, but as far as we can tell, this is isn't some rebel retail venture. It's just another place to buy a bunch of stuff when you're visiting somewhere new or when your a bored, wealthy resident in the Philippines.

Our Top Ten Rules For Shopping Online

coutorture — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 08:56:26 -0700

The list has been a long time coming and best to post just in time for the fall deliveries. Our love for online shopping has been growing as the seasons pass. What used to be a candle here, a pair of jeans there, is now our 90% dedication to buying all things online (from moisturizer to beach towels), and, if you're a regular Coutorture reader, you'll notice that our posting relies heavily on e-commerce widgets and references as a result. Part of Coutorture's plight, from the get-go, was to be an editorial site that really reveled in the process, from sewing machine to storefront (this is where the network comes in--we couldn't possibly do that alone) making for more educated fashion consumers who can do without all the dumbing-down and recycled opinion. That said, we'd like to cover our top-ten rules for online shopping. As a couple of fashionistas who've been honing this skill for some years, we've learned a thing or two along the way and thought it might be useful to share our shortlist.

1. Look when you're not looking. Make your favorite e-commerce site a bookmark and check it once a day to see what's gone on sale and what's new. Check out new e-commerce sites, ask your friends which sites they prefer, or just generally surf what's being sold online. You'll notice patterns, you'll be able to fall in love with things before you need them, and you'll just generally make better decisions because there's less pressure and more time.

2. Know what looks good on you. One of the common complaints people have about shopping online is not being able to try on items. If you're shopping for clothing start with the silhouettes and brands that you know suit your figure. There's no shame in playing it safe, especially when you first start out.

3. Shoes and handbags: your safety net. If you still feel a little strange about the prospect of buying clothing you've never seen on your body, start with handbags and shoes. These items are much easier to gauge online because, chances are, the mannequin's elbow and foot aren't all that different than your own.

4. Buy sale items at your own risk. Sale items are usually non-refundable and, therefore, are a greater risk. That said, finding I-can't-believe-I-found-this-for-a-hundred-dollars items are a dime a dozen online (we're talking like a sample sale from the gods) so we suggest you just weigh your options. Make sure you have a reliable consignment shop nearby (Tokyo 7 is our NYC pick) if you should purchase something you're not crazy about. Chances are, you'll make nearly as much as you spent.

5. Get a second opinion. If you find something you like online, locate the same item on other e-commerce sites. Shopstyle.com is one site where you can cross-check the same item on many different sites at once. One of the unfortunate things about shopping online is that color, size, and texture can sometimes be misconstrued (this is getting better, don't worry). Cross-checking items you want to purchase will help you get a sense of their actual properties and may even help you find something for less than what you found originally.

6. Read the fine print.Reading item descriptions is important to understanding the garment. For example, if a garment is 'fully lined', you can be less weary of it being super-sheer or, for Fall clothing, too light. Descriptions will tell you if something is of high or low quality, imported or domestically made, eco-friendly, or dry clean only: all considerations when buying a garment.

7. Buy big. If you're in between sizes or just generally unsure of fit, for the most part, we recommend buying the larger of two sizes. As long as you know a good tailor, and the garment allows for it, things can always be taken in or up. There's not much you can do with a too-tight frock or pair of trousers, so better to play it safe and go big. The only exception to this rule (which obviously doesn't apply to shoes in the first place) is denim. Women constantly buy their jeans too big. Denim stretches out. Jeans never, no matter how many times you stick them in the dryer, shrink. This is a common misconception and leads to, unfortunately, many less-than-perfect denim booty's.

8. Be your own private detective. When you're shopping with your friends on the weekend, keep an eye on items in the shops (most will be online). If you remember seeing something you liked online, try it on for size. If you're mad about something you see online, go find it in the department stores. The e-commerce option will almost always be in better condition and offered for a better price.

9. Remember your editorials.When you see something in a magazine, a website, or e-commerce splash page, take a look at how the items appear in the editorial. One of our favorite things to see editorialized are jeans. OAK put up an editorial this summer with a pair of high rise Acne jeans. We took note, we checked out the different colors available, we banked that information for when we might need a pair with a similar rise and fit. Point is, it's better to do a little research so you can make educated decisions. That's part of the reason clothing is editorialized in the first place; it gives consumers a context and allows them to see the garments in a different way.

10. Learn from your mistakes. It's absolutely okay to make mistakes and buy things you aren't quite in love with once they arrive on your doorstep. First of all, we firmly believe that those mistakes will be fewer than the one's made at a sample sale or H&M binge, and second of all, you can always (unless it's on sale) return your items. It's not complicated at all and doesn't require a two-hour trip uptown or anything. Just pack it up and send it back. Simple as that.

Now you can enjoy your Sunday brunch without feeling the need to flip the table over and hit the stores because (no matter how early you arrive) they will be packed. Shopping online makes for better decisions, and, makes it feel like everyday is your birthday (This package is for me?!). To us, there just couldn't be anything better.

Topshop's Denim Adventure

coutorture — Thu, 10 Jul 2008 10:03:15 -0700

Topshop has announced plans to upgrade their denim selection, starting with the Oxford Circus location. The new premium denim section will include labels like J Brand (American), Sass & Bide (Australian), and Radcliffe Denim (English), among others. Topshop also intends to launch limited edition capsule denim collections with said brands, which we're sure will garner as much press as it does purchase. If you remember, we posted Topshop's Fall look book (though with the quickest turnover known to man, we're not sure a seasonal tag is necessary) which hyped up the retailer as it will soon land stateside, in Soho; New York's shopping epicenter. We were talking to a couple of friends the other night about our Marni escapade (and respective post) and these ladies, from Long Island and thoroughly immersed in copyright culture, articulated their respect for Tophop who avoids knock-offs (or at least seems to) in comparison to its competitors; H&M and Forever 21 (the ladies explained that Forever 21 is comprised of knock-offs which, because we never shopped there until the aforementioned debacle, we didn't really know). We have to say that with a now denim-dedicated section and a reputation for offering lower priced clothing that articulates the trends with out stepping on other peoples feet, that Topshop has already made quite a good impression on American consumers indeed.

Matthew Williamson Opens Second Outpost In NYC

coutorture — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 08:21:55 -0700

Matthew Williamson, creative director of Pucci, is opening a second outpost for his namesake line in the Meatpacking District. In the past few years Williamson has garnered a strong American following as many a rock star and celeb have donned his colorful designs (while Net-a-Porter peddles it to the masses). Williamson's line was borne in 1997 and his first store opened in London in 2004. A spokeswoman for Williamson was quoted in saying that the next move for Williamson a la brick and mortar will be somewhere in the Middle East. Looks like Williamson, thanks to Pucci and famous people's affinity for bright clothing, is hitting his stride. If you fancy a colorful frock or tank, it's all on sale below. Frankly, we're partial to Williamson's aesthetic in Fall if only because it's more fun to wear bright colors and mixed prints at times when everyone really needs the visual optimism. Matthew Williamson's Fall 08 Fashion Show offered just that. Cobalt and lemon solids, rainbow print knits, and little vests with purple shearling trim made for a very busy collection that, in the end, was smart more than it was overwhelming.

Prada Store Puts Out Fall Garments

coutorture — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 08:02:29 -0700

Walking by the Prada store in Soho yesterday we noticed the lace frocks from the Fall 08 collection in the window. We turned to our companion, "But...it's June". Delivery dates aside, when clothing reaches a certain price, it's just, you know, available and it's not that we forgot that this was the way things roll out in fashion, but poised right across from Uniqlo and H&M, it was a hard pill to swallow. The mass-market retailers thrive on delivery dates that beg their consumers to anticipate every capsule collection and collaboration to hit stores. Nothing is just casually put in the window, nothing worth hype is released without a full-on parade by way of advertising and the press. And, yet, there are the lace frocks, just sitting there. We suppose the point is that to have them in the window is the same as having them in a magazine. It's still something most fashion consumers can't afford, it's still something aspirational. That street, we postulated after walking further West, is like the Bermuda Triangle of fashion. Serious economic downturn or no, the retailers know how to dangle the bait.

Colette Pops Up in New York

coutorture — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 11:54:07 -0700

Colette, the French boutique that seems only a faraway mirage to New Yorkers without vacation time, is opening a pop-up at the beginning of Fall. For a month starting on September 5th, Colette will 'pop up' on 54th street much to the chagrin of it's new neighbor, The Gap. We're curious what will come of the temporary destination du jour, that is, it's not as if Colette as an aesthetic concept, isn't at least somewhat represented by way of other boutiques in New York. At the very least New Yorkers have learned to find the brands elsewhere and so we're just slightly curious whether having it all in one place will really bring chicsters to its doors, especially when it's only open for a month. As New Yorkers know, after all, it's common to stay below fourteenth street (or above 34th, or on the other side of the bridge, etc.) in the span of four short weeks. New Yorkers are busy, and, with the exception of Trader Joe's, we don't like lines. Call us skeptics but something about the location, its short opening, and the customer base, is keeping us curious of the results. Or perhaps it's just the significance that has us concerned.

Inside Scoop: Upper East Side Boutique

coutorture — Mon, 09 Jun 2008 08:22:29 -0700

The middle ground in fashion seems to be disappearing. These days, it’s all about the $9.90 H&M top paired with the $899 Christian Louboutin pumps, and, while mixing high and low is great, there is a clear void in the marketplace. That said, Two Blondes Boutique, at 446 E 78th Street, is a wonderfully refreshing fashion outpost with moderately priced, but undeniably chic clothing and accessories. Owner Amy DiFrisco spent 10 years working as a personal shopper at Bergdorf Goodman before opening the boutique and between her natural eye for fit and her vast knowledge honed from years of experience in the fashion industry, Amy is a great resource for fashionable finds and style advice.

Two Blondes Boutique carries about a dozen different designers at any given time, all of which are small labels that you won’t find in your mainstream boutiques. DiFrisco’s style philosophy comes through loud and clear when browsing her racks of beautifully merchandised apparel. She has a simple aesthetic, but nothing is plain – it’s all about the little, intricate touches that give the clothing she stocks a timeless, natural feel. Difrisco also has an amazing selection of jewelry, hand-crafted by an artist in Paris, most of which retails for under $100 and is wonderfully reminiscent of classic estate jewelry pieces. DiFrisco’s boutique is fairly small and pieces sell quickly, but if you’re not in the NYC area, she ships throughout the United States.

For those who want to take it one step further, Two Blondes Boutique offers a service called “Shopping in Your Closet,” where DiFrisco comes to your house and sorts through your wardrobe to help you maximize and enhance what you already own.

See below for our video interview and gallery of the boutique.

-Sharon Feiereisen

Yohji Yamamoto's NY Flagship

coutorture — Mon, 02 Jun 2008 09:20:26 -0700

Today's article in WWD, on the strength of the flagship in spite of the recession, sparked our interest in writing about the newest Yohji Yamamoto outpost. Last week we walked by the space in the Meatpacking District, and admired its simple facade and modern interior. Though this flagship doesn't occupy multiple floors and boast the kind of bells and whistles that are characteristic of other fashion houses, it was designed with the same thought in mind: that the flagship is one of the most important dialogues between a brand and its customer.

For his second Manhattan outpost Yohji Yamamoto hired architect Junya Ishigami to design a pointed, low-slung boutique with equal parts utility and attraction. At night the wedge-shaped structure, made of large windowpanes and original brick walls, glows from the warm lighting and stark white furniture inside. The structure, divided into two triangular spaces, allows for one part retail and one part storage. In between them a small open-air garden functions as a clothing-free party space and otherwise convenient passageway between private and public quarters. Occupying only 1,300 square feet this sleek outpost was never meant to accommodate the entire Yamamoto range, only select garments and accessories are offered for sale. More than anything, the Gansevoort Street boutique means to embody and encourage the Yamamoto aesthetic, where minimalism is not without its own brand of warmth and detail.

Click to see images from the Yohji Yamamoto Fall 08 collection

Mulberry Pop-Up In The Hamptons

coutorture — Tue, 20 May 2008 08:33:44 -0700

Mulberry has announced a little pop-up venture in the Hamptons. We're wondering if a pop-up can still be referenced as such when the town itself is a pop-up. It's kind of a mind bender. Nonetheless, the East Hampton shop will be open through the summer season and sell the brand's full range of accessories and some clothing.

For more on Mulberry, check out two inclusions from our network partner, Trust Your Style, on her 'Thirty Things I Like About Fall' short list. In the list, she breaks down some of Fall 08's best accessories, a category that isn't frequently editorialized until the clothing has really sunken in (i.e. mid-late summer). Below, we've put together a spread of Mulberry's Spring 08 offerings, for the Hamptons shopping spree you'll conduct with a big wad of euros. And, if you can't make it to the beach, some Mulburry offerings as part of the Net-a-Porter spring sale.

Garmento: Inside Boutique-Owning

coutorture — Thu, 15 May 2008 11:41:57 -0700

Aside from fashion designing and styling, one of the most popular aspirations of budding fashionistas is to open their own boutique. We caught up with Rony Vardi, owner of popular Williamsburg boutique Catbird, to get a reality check on what it takes to bring that dream to fruition in NYC.

Rony decided to start Catbird because she saw a gap in her local neighborhood…there weren’t really any boutiques with designer brands and super-wearable clothes. On her daily trek from the Lorimer L train, she saw a tiny shop in a great location for rent, and decided to take the leap into boutique-owning. Several years, a second location and an e-store later, she’s happy that she took the risk. Her business has been steadily growing, and allows her to do what she loves, while spending time with her growing family. Rony and Tiffany Porter, her right-hand manager/assistant buyer at the Metropolitan Avenue location, gave us some advice for those considering boutique-owning as a career:

*Get the experience you need to own a boutique by managing one first…that’s what Tiffany is doing, and she’s gotten great experience buying, merchandising and managing as a result.

*Be aware of the neighborhood you are in- where the high-traffic areas are, what nearby shops stock the brands you are looking for, what the local shopper wants to buy.

*Be a good judge of character and only work with people who are reliable and you can trust…your boutique is only as good as the staff running it.

*The financial commitment to starting a boutique may not be as enormous as you think…financial back always helps, but at some point you have to take the leap!

Catbird may have started small, but between the two locations they have expanded from ladies apparel to jewelry, accessories, shoes, home goods, kidswear and more. For more information, check out www.catbirdnyc.com. Catbird is located at 390 Metropolitan Avenue and 219 Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Video by Justin Perkinson

About Garmento: Garmento is a weekly feature on Coutorture devoted to giving you an inside look at the real fashion industry. Before the runway reviews and the photo shoots, before the ad campaigns and the Vogue editorials, an enormous network of fashion professionals are involved in the creation of every garment. Check us out every week for a new perspective on each step, from trend forecasting and design to manufacturing and sales. With every new profile, you’ll see that whether your fav outfit is from H&M or Hermes, the process is the same. Don’t become a fashion victim- inform yourself weekly with Garmento, and unleash the smart and savvy shopper within.

About Bob Bland: Bob Bland is a freelance writer and professional menswear designer with experience at Triple Five Soul, Rugby by Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Banana Republic. She is also the designer and founder of Brooklyn Royalty, a Williamsburg-based line of men’s and ladies’ apparel. Founded in 2006, the line combines timeless design principles, premium materials and hand-printed graphics for indispensible garments that are meant to look and wear better over time. For more on Bob Bland and Brooklyn Royalty, check out www.brooklynroyalty.com.

Rogan Happens To Be Popular

coutorture — Thu, 08 May 2008 10:08:33 -0700

Rogan is taking New York by storm this week. Between the opening of a new store on Bowery (now that Varvatos has taken over CBGBs it seems fair game) and the debut of the Target collection at Barneys (and then at, uh, Target) the brand is getting a ton of street cred. In the press, Rogan just landed recognition in a WWD six pager that weighs in on the appearance of the brand's ready to wear line amidst the cheap-o Target gear at Barneys. Some seem to think that this was a big mistake on Barneys part, that it will alienate and confuse the customer, while others see it as a strategic recession-fighting move and/or an effort to promote organic apparel (the collection for Target is 100% organic). Check out our spread of the Spring 08 collection, available on Bowery and beyond, and gallery of the Rogan store opening below.

Collab Mad: Alexander Wang Poised For Uniqlo

coutorture — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 07:05:14 -0700

Prepare for total chaos. The highly anticipated guest collection by Alexander Wang for Uniqlo is poised to hit stores by the end of May. Pictures of the collection have started to circulate, so expect a building sense of consumer anxiety over the next two months. As big business and hot designer collaborations go, this one is about as brilliant as Kate Moss for Topshop. That is, many of Wang's fans are those more likely to recreate his aesthetic with thrift store finds, given the retail price. It's a safe bet, then, that Wang's collection for the Japanese retail chain will sell out immediately. With eight exclusive looks priced between $29 and $79 dollars, Wang fans will have access to this sliver of fashion history, just as long as they're able to wait in line.

Link: Alexander Wang Fall 2008 Fashion Show

We also have impressive designer video interviews and original editorial spreads. May we cordially suggest perusing our selection? Enjoy New York Fashion Week Designer Video Interviews from Oscar De La Renta, Donna Karan for DKNY,Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Nicole Miller, Erin Fetherston, Ashleigh Verrier , Adam Lippes, James Coviello, John Varvatos , Monique Lhuillier, Joanna Mastroianni, Tory Burch, Neeam Khan