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Transparency Trends For Spring 09

We've been trying to imagine the Spring 09 trends the way a seven year old shakes their presents under the christmas tree. Transparency is one we've been thinking about. Transparency, the break-out trend for Spring 08, has pushed on strongly enough. We predict the numbers will be high come Spring 09. The trend-forecasting seminars always tell you that the trends for next season are the same as they were two seasons previous. No miraculous discoveries--just summaries of what, because of various websites, we've seen plenty of already. So our thoughts on transparency aren't unsupported. Just in case a little evidence is needed, however, here's some of what we've seen since Spring 08.

Fall is a season that calls for heavier layers and so transparency is necessarily peripheral because of its impracticality. We did, however, see plenty of it crop up on evening frocks and on blouses that could be easily layered. Ashleigh Verrier used it on feminine frocks that were made season-appropriate by way of fur stoles and thick hosiery. On the darker side of things Alexander Wang used it on shell tanks and leggings in many of his Fall looks and Preen (shown left) used transparency despite every other aspect of the collection being wintery perfection.

Then came Resort and with warmer weather; more freer usage of the textile. Christian Dior used generous portions of transparency for his cruise ship-worthy evening gowns. Chanel, on the other hand, stuck to mini-frocks that were prefect for the Miami-staged runway show. Calvin Klein (shown right), our favorite by far, showed a few examples of transparency in the colorless, structured collection.

Finally menswear came along and gave us the duds that will sit on the other side of the boutique and closet and dresser drawer to ours, come Spring 09. Transparency--check. We saw it unabashed and blazing from Givenchy, we saw it in lace from Yohji Yamamoto, and from Costume National (shown left) masquerading as a normal work shirt--complete with blazer and tie.

We think it's time to stop shaking the present now. We're pretty sure we know what we're getting when it's time to open the gifts. You never know though, like when you're a kid, there's always one that surprises you...

Behind The Scenes Pencey And Resort 09

A jumper has to be kind of amazing these days in order to survive. Many a summer has gone by with the jumper taking center stage and, at this point, the silhouette has to be a show-stopper in order to get a nod from the audience. When we rolled up to the Pencey showroom (drenched in sweat and rather unglamorous) we were shown a salmon jumper we would pull for our The Sun Doesn't Care photo shoot. At first, we gave it a gander and moved on, trying to see what else was on the rack. Later, we were shown the salmon garment in the look book and realized this was one deep-plunging, perfectly tailored jumper to top all jumpers. "Yes we will take one" is all we said. How silly of us to have skipped over it.

Pencey's Resort 09 collection, is full of easy pieces that are basic at first glance, but actually quite special upon further inspection. Whether a-symmetry, mesh detail, or draping sets them apart, each piece is well-thought out without being overly complicated. Christina Minasian and Kate Wendelborn are the designers behind the brand and it is they (including Christina's sister, who does sales) whom we've long seen running around New York. The girls are gorgeous, skinny jeans-and-shades wearing chicsters and are more or less the embodiment of fashion as we see it downtown. It's no wonder we know Pencey to make clothing that is relevant without being fussy. As always, it's the people behind the brand that give it personality. A crush-worthy jumper couldn't exist in 2008 otherwise.



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Stephen Burrows Resort/Holiday 08/09

Designer Stephen Burrows understands that when women vacation, and when they get jazzed up for the holidays, the animal prints come out. Be it a conservative silk blouse, a feminine full skirt, or a risque mini dress, there's something about an animal print that suggests you're up for some out-of-the-ordinary fun. Burrows, who started his company back in the 1960's, knows this from experience. Having dressed everyone from Cher to Diana Ross, when his clothing finally hit Henri Bendel in the 1970's, the man knows a thing or two about what it takes to stand out in a crowd. To us, there's no better opportunity for that sentiment than vacations and holidays (not that we're opposed to going for it on an ordinary weekday). Aside from frisky animal prints, Burrow's put out slinky wide leg trousers, Prada-esque lace skirts and frocks, and office-ready silk suiting (for the chicster who likes to dress up for her flight) for his Resort and Holiday collections. We have to say, we can't argue a fashion formula that just...works.



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