Garmento: Inside Jewelry Design

Seasonal trends and must-haves aside, there is one accessory category that never loses its magic. Inherent opulence make jewelry the undisputed icing on the cake of fashion, so what better topic for this week’s Garmento? We visited the Soho studio of Carmen Fritsch, of MeshNY, to learn the process of jewelry design and find out what it takes to start your own line.

Carmen is a descendent of 3 generations of jewelry designers, so after taking classes with industry veteran Boris Goynatsky, starting a line together seemed like the next natural step. They developed a signature technique, and then combined their skills in design, production and marketing to create an initial collection made exclusively from precious metals. Three years later, MeshNY has been featured on TV shows from Desperate Housewives to Lipstick Jungle, and on the pages of Elle and Lucky Magazine.

MeshNY’s intricate designs are glamorous, but their development and production is all hard work. Jewelry design requires tons of start-up capital (way more than apparel design), and in recent years, many local jewelry plating businesses have closed because of increasing health concerns and overhead costs. At MeshNY, each piece is made of either pure sterling silver, sterling plated with gold, or pure 18k gold, because metal alloys can’t be plated and aren’t as long lasting as silver or gold. Boris showed us how wax carving and metal-smithing are used to make the first molds, which are then cast into a more permanent silicon mold, from which multiple copies of a design can be made. Some pieces are too intricate or three-dimensional for this technique, and have to be individually reproduced. Check out the video and photos below to see the equipment jewelers use to make a mold.

Working against the odds to make their design dreams a reality has given both Carmen and Boris a great sense of humor. When asked for advice to give aspiring jewelry entrepreneurs, the duo cracked a series of jokes before suggesting that serious financial backing, unique design concepts, commitment and a little luck are the key. Here at Garmento, though, we know that learning to laugh in this industry will take you a long way, too.

About Garmento: Garmento is a weekly feature on Coutorture devoted to giving you an inside look at the real fashion industry. Before the runway reviews and the photo shoots, before the ad campaigns and the Vogue editorials, an enormous network of fashion professionals are involved in the creation of every garment. Check us out every week for a new perspective on each step, from trend forecasting and design to manufacturing and sales. With every new profile, you’ll see that whether your fav outfit is from H&M or Hermes, the process is the same. Don’t become a fashion victim- inform yourself weekly with Garmento, and unleash the smart and savvy shopper within.

About Bob Bland: Bob Bland is a freelance writer and professional menswear designer with experience at Triple Five Soul, Rugby by Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Banana Republic. She is also the designer and founder of Brooklyn Royalty, a Williamsburg-based line of men’s and ladies’ apparel. Founded in 2006, the line combines timeless design principles, premium materials and hand-printed graphics for indispensible garments that are meant to look and wear better over time. For more on Bob Bland and Brooklyn Royalty, check out www.brooklynroyalty.com.

Links:
MeshNY
Garmento:Inside Trend Forecasting
Garmento: Inside Denim Fabric Sourcing
Garmento: Inside Boutique Owning
Garmento: Inside Leather Manufacturing
Garmento: Inside Screenprinting