During this Fall 2008 Fashion Week we captured the backstage preparations for James Coviello's fashion show. This was when we fell in love, not only with Coviello's collection but with the energy, romance, and discipline the designer brings to his work. For today's exclusive Coutorture photo shoot we shot the hats in Coviello's collection, up close and personal. It's clear by now that millinery is making a huge comeback in fashion, and who better to speak with than someone with a strong background in this craft.


Coviello, in addition to designing his own line of hats from when he first graduated from Parson's in 1987, has also designed hats for Oscar de la Renta, Anna Sui, and Calvin Klein in the past. His knowledge of millinery work is impressive and his enthusiasm, therefore, is unwavering, "Everyone should have a hat! People are afraid of color but on an accessory like a hat it doesn't have to define you or your wardrobe...The hats [for Fall 08] added to each outfit and no one once said the word 'costume.' These hats don't feel like we are trying too hard. It felt new and fresh and honestly, it was nice to take a risk"


This Fall 08 season, Coviello turned to a rich 1940's art deco inspiration. The looks were ladylike and encouraged a strong posture and confident profile. It's the kind of fashion that begs for poise, something we're sure will make for a strong consumer response come Fall deliveries. As for the hats in the collection, Coviello tells us, "It's a nod to the avant garde. [To] make a statement. It's a phantasmagoria of color, the romance of the old blocks." But the collection didn't manifest from the hats, rather it was the other way around, "They weren't prepared until we started to do previews of the collection...Every night after a regular day of work I would sit down with the hats. It was my second shift. It got to be second nature. And then slowly but surely it came together. But then its second nature as I have been doing it for so long...Making the hats [for Fall 08] was like making another whole collection. In the past we had done one style but this season the hats felt like their own collection even as they enhanced what was going on in the clothing. "


Boy, did they ever. Our photo shoot with Coviello's hats below, along with links to the Fall 08 backstage photos, fashion show, and other Coutorture editorial.

We also have impressive designer video interviews and original editorial spreads. May we cordially suggest perusing our selection? Enjoy New York Fashion Week Designer Video Interviews from Oscar De La Renta, Donna Karan for DKNY,Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Nicole Miller, Erin Fetherston, Ashleigh Verrier , Adam Lippes, James Coviello, John Varvatos , Monique Lhuillier, Joanna Mastroianni, Tory Burch, Neeam Khan

oscar

nostalgia

brace yourself

haunted

Winter garments in summer is a big topic in the fashion industry as of late. We are crushing on shimmer nylons and have used Fall collections as the ultimate summer wardrobes so its no surprise that we continue to find ourselves enamored with community members that take this fascination as seriously as we do. Fashion is Spinach has fallen in love with hats even in this hot humid sticky months. She really enjoys tiny caps but we must say we are in love with really all kinds of hats and have been since we had the pleasure of shooting James Coviello's fall hats. Let's all hope that this trend catches on in a big way!

Everyone loves a trend story and hats were everywhere in New York. Ralph Lauren, Oscar De La Renta, Marc Jacobs, Temperely, James Coviello, Doo.Ri, and Jenni Kayne were all big on covering up on top. With politics like it is we wouldn't be surprised if keeping our heads covered is a precaution against the sky falling. Chicken Little anyone?

People say that a collection should speak for itself, but we like to hear about the clothes just as much as we do see them. If a designer's inspiration is thoughtful, if their work is both creative and cognitive, it can bring to life an element of the collection that even the most poised model cannot conjure. The season, James Coviello was partly inspired by Neo Rauch, the German painter most often associated with Socialist Realism (this is not, Kundera territory). Rauch's work is highly narrative and, as Coviello mentions in our backstage interview, 'nostalgic'. Knowing Rauch a bit, and revisiting his paintings after the show, our appreciation for the collection deepened. The dynamic color combinations and theatrical accessories in Coviello's show, though lively on the runway, became prized-possession territory after the inspiration was revealed.

'Paranoia', oil on canvas painting by Neo Rauch, 2007

We are backstage at James Coviello. The air is dense with hairspray as models are teased into fluffy visions. Jame's dog Francis is providing a little bit of creature comfort and a lot of levity as last minute touches are put on intricate headgear.