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Today's original Coutorture editorial, shot by photographer Wayne Liu, took place in the 168th street subway station. We took the 1 train up together, pieces from the Fall 08 Steinunn collection in tow, and spent the rest of the day underground. Funnily enough it was the first day of Spring in New York.
To learn more about Liu, check out our interview and his first photo shoot with us called, Haunted. After the shoot we asked Liu to write us something on what would become 'The One Train'. Below, his narrative, and the shoot with Steinunn Fall 08.
'Ms. X appears, on the silver screen or right next to me—I cannot know the difference. I am no stalker, no, I’m too disinterested to even try, but perhaps we’ve talked at some point, and perhaps the static air of our whispers is what remains stalking me. We connect on the topic of ephemeral relationships and their malcontents; then she drifts, tugging her hair, or maybe her bonnet, and begins to straighten her blouse. She pretends not to notice the gum dried on the track, nor the glance from the edge of my eye. These matter not to her, these flirtations exchanged. She enjoys herself for reasons I shall remain oblivious to, so it seems with her eyes desiring couture endlessly that I can relate in my obsessive collecting of her images, presented here for a future Ms. X.' -Wayne Liu
Steinunn Sigurd is an a rare mix of sophistication and rawness. The designer featured in our One Train photo editorial shot by Wayne Liu. The Icelandic designer is heavily influenced by the nature of her homeland and yet that organic influence is tempered by her exceptional focus craftsmanship. The combination of virgin wilderness and modern detailing makes for a balanced intellectual reflection on dressing.
Can you tell us a little bit about your inspiration for the Fall 08 collection?
My inspiration always comes from Iceland, this season it is the texture of the lava, the orange colour of the magna, the floating lava and the misty silver, grey colour from the steam of the hot springs.
The details of each garment really stand out. This was part of the reason why we chose to shoot the collection with photographer Wayne Liu, in black and white film. Does detail come before, say, color or silhouette in your designs?
I always start with texture, that is the most important part of the collection, it is the reason behind the collection. I didn't know that you choose to shoot in black and white, it must look amazing.
What did your experiences working as Design Director for La Perla and Senior Designer for Tom Ford teach you about what it takes to run your own label?
Mr. Ford made me independent, to stand and work on my own and make my own decisions, He gave me an insight in to sex appeal and rock and roll. La Perla gave my the first oppertunity to prove my independence.
Is there anything you miss about working for another designer?
What I do miss about working with the big fashion houses is the professionalism that surrounds them. Their names stands for crafmanship, pure design and standard that is very high. Everyday I think of this craftmanship.
If Seinunn could go anywhere, be anything--what would be in store for the label?
The most amazing pieces of clothing with crafmanship that can withstand decades...timeless elegance.
6. Outside of Steinunn, what is your everyday life like?
My Reykjavík life is very simple: family, friends, dog, house, summerhouse, gardening and being part of the Reykjavík creative melting pot.
As part of our showroom photo shoot series (see James Coviello and JF & Son for more) we popped into Archetype showroom to shoot the Corpus Fall 08 collection. Earlier that day, we had a rager over the revival of acid wash (didn't this just happen) and when we got to the showroom, low and behold, a pair of cherry red acid washed jeans were looking us in the eye. So, we thought of the shoot from the vantage point of a prep school in the early 1990's. Maybe even an English prep school, we thought, which probably popped into our minds with our model Estella, telling us about her move to New York from sunny London. We first saw the Corpus Fall 08 collection at Capsule, and right away the Navajo print cardigan caught our eye. One of the first major purchases everyone makes when Fall is on it's way is a new cozy cardi. It's hard to think about now, as all New York has on it's mind are the sweet blue skies of summer. But it's true. If you think back to the first time there's a chill in the air, the first time you opt for a hot coffee and a croissant over an iced coffee and a bowl of Margarita, you start thinking about cozy knits and country homes. Queue Navajo print. Seriously, it conjures all of those cozy cravings in one fell swoop. Funnily enough, the guys behind Corpus, Jerrod Cornish and Keith Richardson, live in Los Angeles. Somehow, the pair have captured an East Coast moment with their Fall 08 prep school versus the college professor vibe. Like romanticizing a change in seasons, maybe a little bit of distance makes for a brighter future. Our interview with Corpus below as well as our exclusive Coutorture editorial of the Fall 08 collection.
Can you tell us a little bit how Corpus began?
Jerrod and I had been friends for awhile. One day we were talking and decided that we wanted to start a clothing line. We saw something missing in the market and wanted to fill that void.
What was missing? Was it a few specific garments you envisioned, or a particul aesthetic?
We felt there was a lot missing. This was over 5 years ago when we started the process of getting Corpus rolling. Streetwear was huge and there wasn't much of a middle ground between high fashion and low priced clothing. So we set out to do clothes that were not cheap but also not trying to be a uber fashion like Lanvin. We wanted to make quality fashionable clothes that you can wear but didn't look like you were walking down a runway.
Do you think there is anything inherently West Coast about the brand?
The West Coast is amazing and we are very proud of residing here. But our brand is not like most brands from the West as far as the styling and type of garments we make. There are not many people making moreno cashmere sweaters with navajo prints knit into them out here. But the West Coast resides in places for sure in the brand I just can't put my finger on it.
May, over at Archetype, told me that you were friends with the designers of Fremont. Are many of your friends designers or artists of some sort?
Yes we know Devon. He's great. We have many friends in the creative feilds. Its great to be around like minded people no matter what form or art the do music, paiting, fashion etc.
Is it difficult to be immersed in a community of other designers and artists and yet still create collections that are, to you, nonconformist?
No because most clothing in our category looks the same. And in LA there are not many clothing designers we are inspired by. Its more like minded people that inspire us. We spend a lot of time in New York and get direct inspiration from fashion designers and artists and just the general public in New York but in LA there is a disconnect--your in your car all day. You just don't see many people in LA. Its your home, to your car, to work, back to your car, and home. It's hard to get inspired living that lifestyle. You have to look much harder to see what's out here. If Corpus had a manifesto, what would it be?
Just to make clothes we are proud to put out there. Never conforming to what the rest of the market is doing.
How do you differentiate between the women's and mens lines? Do you treat them as separate entities, design everything at the same time, design something unisex and spin it in two directions, or some combination of all of these things?
The womens line is growing slowly into its own entity. Soon we will have more womens specific pieces.
One of the only breaks we took during fashion week, where we decided to just sit down and watch, was at The BlondsFall 08 fashion show. Most of America will think of Betsey Johnson as the wild and crazy show to watch, but the true fashionistas know that lesser known, downtown labels like The Blonds really know how to pack the punch. The Fall 08 show, held at the Prince George Ballroom, revealed a collection inspired by the movie Legend (Naturally, we included the famous unicorn apology scene below). The theme safely queued up The Blonds penchant for flamboyant, embellished, glamorous costumery and gave this season an extra push towards unicorns, rainbow colored gemstones, and big hair (nothin' wrong with that). The more traditional garments in the collection could easily be worn to an elegant black tie occasion, and the most wild in the collection, at the best clubs in New York City. If your a Blond girl, you'll have a little bit of both thankyouverymuch.
Phillipe and David Blond launched the label just four years ago. Each piece in their collection is handmade and one of a kind. As wild as some of their pieces are, we aren't surprised that the collection gets snatched up quickly. The thing about people who like to wear outrageous garments with extra special details is that they aren't exactly the type to, well, share. Funnily enough, Phillipe Blond started his design career working for Los Angeles based label DDC Lab, known for a utility-based aesthetic that doesn't exactly involve bedazzled corsets (though he was an illustrator, so perhaps that was the, ahem, draw) or club-ready clothing. David Blonde was a windows man for ten years in New York City. Now, the two are wholeheartedly The Blonds and bring that persona from Fashion Week, to the drafting table, to the dance floor, and back.
The Blonds Fall 08 Fashion Show
Coutorture original editorial, backstage at The Blonds Fall 08 show
See, New Yorkers like nature! Promise! Well, it doesn't hurt when there's a bit of fashion thrown in the mix (or black lipstick!). For our second installment of this exclusive Trend de la Creme for Coutorture comparison series, Trend de la Creme has helped us rig up the likeness of bugs and insects with the Fall 08 Giles collection as seen in London Fashion Week. This collection is said to have been inspired by Edgar Allen Poe's The Masque Of The Red Death, a story where a grand party is thrown with each room decorated in a different color. In the story, everyone starts, quite literally, dropping dead. So for Giles, this meant a kind of glamorous gothic inspiration. Why, then, does each garment correspond so impeccably with an insect or bug? We're thinking it's to do with the golden ratio or something. Or, on a serious note, that our eye recognizes only a few general aesthetic characteristics at first glance (color, shape, texture), leaving room for these likenesses. Take a peek for yourself, our gallery of the Giles Fall 08 collection and its entomological comparisons, below.
Today's original Coutorture editorial, shot by photographer Wayne Liu, took place in the 168th street subway station. We took the 1 train up together, pieces from the Fall 08 Steinunn collection in tow, and spent the rest of the day underground. Funnily enough it was the first day of Spring in New York.
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