Christian Dior not only rhymes with 'haute couture', thanks to Galliano, it actually makes sense. Galliano, whose recent collections (i.e. Resort and his own menswear collection for Spring 09) have resulted in a few raised eyebrows and audible 'yeesh's, has shown us, for the up-teenth time, that couture is his true calling. Compare this collection to his Resort one. In comparison his Resort feels like woozy acid trip, an all-too-potent offering to women who just want to go on vacation. Now, his couture is an entirely different story. In couture, time stops, practicality ceases to exit, fashion is not editorialized as fantasy, it absolutely is. This place is undoubtedly where Galliano belongs. He can skip out on as many award ceremonies as he pleases, he can give us woozy and loud via pret-a-porter; so long as he keeps doing this.
This season John Galliano for Christian Dior brought us 1920's-style hats and silhouettes that cinched in waists and then exaggerated their proportions coming off the body. He played with bondage-like materials (black patent, leather) by pitting them against virginal white chiffons, once a full-length, full-width approximation of a wedding dress. In Dior's world right now, the Art Deco era (the stuff of Tamara de Lempicka undoubtedly) where women could be both dangerous and demure, rules with an iron fist. This is rightly couture, something we can neither liken to a seen-on-the-street trend, nor imagine being ripped off by Urban Outfitters. If we venture to bring this collection down to earth, it would have to go through five cycles of dumbing down before it hit the shelves at 14.99. This is as it should be. Galliano is where he ought to be. We are impressed.
John Galliano is letting his cruise customers pick and choose for Dior Cruise 2009. Skirts, capris, colorful blouses were all on display for women accustomed to taking proper trips to warmer climates in odd seasons, making it a dutifully commercial collection for high end consumers. But from there Galliano went straight to flight of fancy territory.
Aqua, neon pink, orange, and yellows popped as did flouncing florals for the woman that needs to stand out against a lush background. But most whimsically, Galliano showed pastel ball gowns made for a by gone era in which one cruised for months at a time and required serviceable evening wear for the captain's table.
Barney's and Target is a match made in heaven, at least in these tough economic times. Target is having trouble with same-store sales as its customers forgo superfluous purchases i.e fashion for toilet paper. Barney's is having a tough time selling 2,000K Lanvin dresses in second city markets. Thus somehow we have Target Co-Op. Not quite contemporary, still quite alluring and very easy to market.
We did not know that Golf Digest has a fashion editor. Apparently his name is Martin Hackel and he has a hard time educating the golf pros on things on well fitting polos and pants. We sense an opportunity for the Ralph Lauren folks!
The Dior phone has been confirmed. Christian Dior said this week it would launch a signature cell phone, in partnership with Paris-based mobile specialist ModeLabs. The fashion phone will be unveiled May 21 at the Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne.
Donna Karen and DKNY are getting in bed with Maidenform. Starting for Spring 2009 Maidenform will have the liscening rights to produce Ms Karen's innerwear.
In Paris this week, John Galliano showed his Fall 2008 collection for Christian Dior. The inspiration, as reported by WWD, is a mix of Baby Jane Holzer (Warhol's first Superstar), Raquel Welch, and Anne Bancroft (as Mrs. Robinson). The three, indeed, have a similar aesthetic which include that 1960's brand of svelte cougar that lends itself nicely to a modern Dior. The Fall 08 show revealed demure retro shapes which were enlivened by bold color, exaggerated details (a ten gallon hat with prim bow at the front), and 60's era styling (which means a liberal application of hairspray and mascara). The Dior collection, shown in Paris, also referenced New York's Fall 08 trends with its short gloves and jeweled embellishments.
Photo courtesy of Bryanboy.com
Links:
Oscar de la Renta Fall 08 Backstage
Oscar de la Renta Fall 08 Photo Gallery
Oscar de la Renta Fall 08 Video
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