coutorture --

Garmento: Inside Denim Fabric Sourcing

coutorture — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 09:39:40 -0700

Everyone loves slipping into a great pair of jeans, and premium denim has achieved cult status as the must-have fabric of everyone from undergrads to top fashion editors. Considering its ubiquitous popularity, we thought exploring the wide ranging qualities of denim would be the perfect topic for Garmento.

Ever been disappointed by jeans that started wearing out after only a year? While that $50 pair of Uniqlos might be a great deal now, they are affordable because mass-produced, imported denim is not designed to last. For trendy styles and seasonal colors, cheap jeans might be the right choice, but spending extra cash pays off in the long run when looking for your new favorite pair.

We met up with Erica Brown and Kara Nicholas of Cone Denim to view their collection at the Manhattan showroom. Established in Greensboro, North Carolina in 1891 by brothers Moses and Ceasar Cone, Cone Denim has been a supplier of fabric to top denim apparel brands like Levi’s (their signature 501s are made exclusively from Cone) for over 100 years. They currently operate in the U.S., Mexico and Turkey, but their highest quality and most artisanal denim styles are still made in Greensboro, N.C. on original shuttle looms that have been in operation since the 1930’s.

As we all try to stretch our dollars during the current economic downturn, even dedicated shoppers might ask, “Why pay $200 for a pair of jeans?” While it’s true that brand recognition and design details are big pricing factors, the quality of the fabric has a huge impact on how a great pair of jeans will look and wear over time. True denim connoisseurs look for selvedge-edge styles, which mean that the fabric has a finished edge on both sides and is produced in short runs on vintage equipment, like the shuttle looms at Cone. While Japanese mills are still the top choice for this style, many American designers are becoming aware that there are competitively-priced domestic options. Other premium types of denim include organic, indigo-free and vintage-styled denim. Cone has experienced growing popularity in these types with their White Oak collection, inspired by original constructions of the early to mid 1900's and developed for the premium market of denim aficionados and vintage collectors. See below for our video interview, gallery of the studio, and more information.

Links:
Cone Denim
Garmento: Inside Leather Manufacturing at KnoxNY
Garmento: Inside the Screenprinter’s Studio

Video by Justin Perkinson

About Garmento: Garmento is a weekly feature on Coutorture devoted to giving you an inside look at the real fashion industry. Before the runway reviews and the photo shoots, before the ad campaigns and the Vogue editorials, an enormous network of fashion professionals are involved in the creation of every garment. Check us out every week for a new perspective on each step, from trend forecasting and design to manufacturing and sales. With every new profile, you’ll see that whether your fav outfit is from H&M or Hermes, the process is the same. Don’t become a fashion victim- inform yourself weekly with Garmento, and unleash the smart and savvy shopper within.

About Bob Bland: Bob Bland is a freelance writer and professional menswear designer with experience at Triple Five Soul, Rugby by Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Banana Republic. She is also the designer and founder of Brooklyn Royalty, a Williamsburg-based line of men’s and ladies’ apparel. Founded in 2006, the line combines timeless design principles, premium materials and hand-printed graphics for indispensible garments that are meant to look and wear better over time. For more on Bob Bland and Brooklyn Royalty, check out www.brooklynroyalty.com.

Made In Heaven Jeans

coutorture — Mon, 02 Jun 2008 08:39:48 -0700

These might just be the most perfect 1970's inspired jeans on the market. And they've the tabloid shoutouts, editorial coverage, and rich historical background to justify the aesthetic. Made in Heaven jeans is run by the daughter of a gent who was partially responsible for bringing denim over to London in the early 1970's. Her father, The Blue Jean King, started his own high street chain when all of the boutiques refused to purchase his trunks of wholesale denim and the rest, so they say, is history. Made In Heaven, today, turns out classic denim silhouettes and crisp shirting in compliment. The daughter, a Central St Martins-trained designer, is pushing the company to make a comeback (so far, so good) with a fool-proof combination of experience and modernity. Below, the Spring 08 look book and a spread of online options from the London-based brand.

Hardcore Finnish Design

coutorture — Tue, 20 May 2008 08:19:45 -0700

Finnish designers had their own space during Meatpacking Design District 2008. Hardcore New Finnish Design showcased a wide variety of Finnish talent in industrial, furniture, graphic and even fashion design.

We gravitated towards Anna Ruohonen a Finnish fashion designer currently working in Paris. In her designs Ruohonen aspires to provide an alternative to the ever-changing fashions in clothing. For her a garment is not made just for one season, but rather it should be able to withstand time. Ruohonen’s philosophy is reflected in her work on show in HARDCORE, where she presents her designs under the title Black Classics a selection of the designer’s own favorites since the year 2000. Her emphasis on timelessness comes out in the quality of the construction and the fabrics

The Swedes aren't the only Scandanavians dedicated to denim. The Finns apparently have a yen for the top notch stuff as well. koneHELSINKI (the Finnish word ‘kone’ means ‘machine’ in English) is a design company founded by Finnish fashion designer Kalle Kuusela. The philosophy behind the line centers on the "sameness" of traditional denim. Jeans are often a piece of clothing that has a tendency to look like mere variations of the same theme - despite small changes in fashion, every pair looks basically the same. koneHelsinki’s jeans, on the contrary, show that even jeans can be uniquely captivating in their design. We aren't sure how well they succeed from the small set of samples we saw but we do like the philosophy nonetheless.

Our favorite piece however came from watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva. Son of the prominent Finnish jewellery designer Pentti Sarpaneva, he comes from a family with a long heritage of craftsmanship. He first graduated from The Finnish School of Watchmaking then moved to Switzerland to further his studies at WOSTEP. The Sarpaneva watch on show in HARDCORE is titled Time Tramp. It is a pocket watch made of the used kickstart pinion of an old Harley Davidson motorbike. "The idea was to make something simple and a bit brutal, but beautiful…like life in Finland.” said Stepan Sarpaneva in a QP magazine interview. We were certainly smitten, along with every man we have showed it to so far. Clearly a pocket watch is only appealing to a man if it strays as far away from its foppish history as possible. And it is pretty hard to get anymore "hardcore" than a kickstart pinion from a Harley.

For More Meatpacking Design District 2008.

Network Shoutout: A.P.C. Petit Standard Jeans

coutorture — Tue, 29 Apr 2008 11:55:08 -0700

It's crazy how the smallest stitch or hemline can turn the denim world upside down. We thought A.P.C. denim news warranted a shoutout for this very reason. Our network partners, We Are The Market and Bored & Beautiful both gave a little nod to the newest jeans being turned out by the French brand. To put it in context, A.P.C.'s New Standard jeans, although there are more narrow cuts, are often thought of as hipster jeans. These jeans, so widely worn, so rarely washed, have become so notorious that the brand has decided to turn out a less trendy version, namely, the Petit Standard. In case you don't know French, that translates to "Mini Hipster" so now boys girls afraid of looking, as Bored & Beautiful puts it, “like fledgling rocker trendies from the 6th arrondissement of Paris, Harajuku or the Lower East Side” can walk in confidence.

Immaterial: Acid Trip

coutorture — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 07:45:50 -0700

American Apparel Acid WashAcid wash is back. That is right you heard it here first. Acid wash is making a comeback and we couldn't be more excited. We grant we aren't quite ready for an acid wash denim jacket with fringes and matching jeans, but like our community partner The Budget Fashionista, the pale end of the denim spectrum is beginning to look really appealing. And we can't stop the feeling. Corpus has some crazy colored acid wash jeans for fall which if you pair with American Apparel's Unisex Acid Wash Jersey Deep V-Neck Short just might make us plotz. But if you aren't quite as adventurous as the colored acid wash trend (that is right we are calling it a trend) there are still plenty of acid wash options that stay in light denim range from these Stella McCartney High Waisted Trouser Jeans to Ksubi Super Skinny Zip Jeans in Uzi Blue Vein. That's right we have got you covered from high waisted trousers to super skinny jeans. No excuses now huh?

For More Immaterial click here

Denim News Shoutout: Coated Denim

coutorture — Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:40:47 -0700

Every trend forecasting seminar, every manufacturer, every trade show rep is talking about coated denim. Basically, it's denim treated such that it looks like, well, trousers. There are different types of coating (like Polyurethane or more eco-friendly versions with wax) and those techniques are being explored and evolved by different designers and likewise tested on the market. Coated denim, as our Network Partner Denim News points out, used to feel and look quite thick, however, new methods have made it such that there's a thinner sheen, and more wearable weight to these treated trousers. Expect to see these jeans cum, er, pants more and more. The look might not be apt for hot weather but by fall consumers will be looking for something more substantial and special after wearing their torn Levi's all summer. Or so the theory goes. Check out our Garmento expedition to a denim manufacturer's studio, and, the trend alert from Denim News.

Immaterial: 18th Amendment 'West' Denim Shorts in Herringbone

coutorture — Tue, 22 Apr 2008 05:55:16 -0700

Fancy a pair of short shorts? These 18th Amendment 'West' Denim Shorts in Herringbone are just the ticket. The thing to remember, however, when shopping ecommerce is that nothing is quite as short as it looks, unless, that is, you happen to be 5'11". If you're not, you can count on that 'mini' dress coming straight down to your knees, those floor sweeping wide leg trousers to bunch up at the floor, and those 'short shorts' to just be, well, short. While many jeans shorts walk a fine line between relaxed and straight up tacky, these shorts have the sort of details that put them in the former category. There's a smocked waistband at the back which helps with the sizing issue, that is, high waisted garments can be hard to size as you have to consider not only your hip measurements but your waist as well. The denim, a light (right on trend) herringbone wash also give them that tailored fabric feeling, so they don't look like the Levi's cut offs you've had for ten years. 18th Amendment is an Australian denim company. The line pivots on vintage silhouettes and so became especially coveted when styles like the high waisted, wide leg trousers came back into fashion.

Click for more Immaterial

Little Molly Cake Shoutout: Denim Skirt Search

coutorture — Fri, 11 Apr 2008 13:14:01 -0700

Even though the 'cute denim skirt' story has been penned a million times, mistakes like these are still made. So, we push forward. Our new network partner, Litttle Molly Cake reported on some affordable denim skirts she was scouting out for a friend. Among them the Old Navy skirt ended up being our favorite, just a clean, classic pencil skirt sans fray, sans fading, sans derriere spillage. For all intents and purposes, we've put together some additional options ranging from places like Forever Twenty One to those offered by lines like See by Chloe. Denim, the fabric of Americana, has a dynamic history and, let's just say, an inventive relationship with its people. Let's all think about that for a few moments (wink, wink).

Crap! Now All Your Wardrobe Will Come H&M

coutorture — Fri, 07 Mar 2008 05:28:43 -0800

Broke skinny hipsters found a savior in Cheap Monday. A $60 pair of jeans that denoted status as an indie favorite (well OK maybe two years ago) kept new Williamsburg transplants without trust funds from stocking their wardrobes entirely from H&M and American Apparel. Alas those halycon days of independent Swedish denim that said "I'm cool, my jeans are hot, and I didn't drop $200 at APC or Earnest Sewn" are over. H&M has taken a 60% stake in the label. Or rather a stake in its parent company Fabric Scandinavian AB. We have no idea what it means except that they are going to have to start stocking larger sizes. Size 27 doesn't really cut it in the heartland these days. Weirdly H&M CEO Leif Persson seems more interested in Cheap Monday sister brand Monki as a stand alone portfolio piece. We are guessing he hasn't been to Brooklyn in a while.

Spring 08 Trend Report: The Denim Shirt

coutorture — Thu, 06 Mar 2008 05:52:30 -0800

Sometimes trends appear to us through osmosis. Just the other day we walking down the street thinking, 'Hey man, I'd really like a thin, denim shirt', and then WHAM!, we see one in the window of our favorite vintage store. Now, it seems we can't escape the darn things. A denim button down could be put in the b-list of wardrobe staples but like we always say, if your Dad has had one for twenty years, you're in the clear. We imagine it worn loosely, like you've just run out of the house for the paper and a coffee. This summertime basic would be sweet with a pair of tortoise specs, a white Hanes t shirt (no bra!), and pair of vintage shorts (yes, this imaginary outfit inspired our 'Hey man, I'd really like a denim shirt.'). With fashion as simple as this, hell, you might actually have time to read The New Yorker this afternoon.

A Siwy Denim Spring/Summer

coutorture — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 06:44:59 -0800

Siwy denim, the New York based label, has given us some non-frock alternatives for Summer. Usually in the summer, our jeans rotation slows down and emphasis is put on only the best and most comfortable pairs. Siwy is one of the only denim lines around that really designs a Spring/Summer collection. It's not just a lighter wash, it's everything from color to rise to cut, that's considered. This fact alone makes Siwy a prime candidate for dominating the top three spots of the coveted summer denim rotation. This season, our favorite styles include the Carmen shorts, a low rise, single pleat pair with rounded side seams (which equal breathing room) and the Selma, a slouchy boot cut pair that we can vividly imagine with our favorite ex-boyfriend t-shirt and canvas sneakers. What's more, this season's most prominent washes are a crisp white, midnight, and classic blue which decidedly cover all of our basic summer denim needs.

Coutorture's Weekend Must Reads 1/25

Fri, 25 Jan 2008 13:35:51 -0800

Toronto Style discovers an eco-friendly nail spa.

True Religion expands into handbags. Platinum Blonde Life has the details.

Temptalia teaches us how to achieve Valentine's Day lips.

It's end of season sale time, and In My Bag is ecstatic.

Cuffington tells a tale of rear views & denim confusion.

Prefab: Spring/Summer 2009 Fabric Show and Trend Report

coutorture — Tue, 22 Jan 2008 18:52:51 -0800

Yesterday we attended The Supima Premium Fabric Show where an edited group of companies revealed their Spring 2009 fabrics. The companies, based in countries all over the world, all use 'Superior Pima', a high quality cotton that makes up less than 1% of the cotton bales produced globally, and so we perused the variety of options available to designers using this textile.

One of the most interesting companies, we thought, was Arvind Mills. Arvind Mills is one of the top three producers of denim in the world and counts Lee, Wrangler, and Tommy Hilfiger as clients. Primarily based in India, the company thrives on its denim production but also creates khaki, shirting, and knits. It was all very American (we love our denim), the fact that the Arvind booth was chalk full of designers where the others had one or two ambling onlookers. Also popular were the presence of organic cottons and alternative textiles. While some companies, like Ecotex, specialized in green textiles, others simply had eco-friendly options (clearly a sign that the offering is not only responsible, but also now profitable).

Later in the day, we attended a lecture by David Wolfe, creative director for The Doneger Group, on forecasting trends for Spring 2009. Among Wolfe's predictions were a move towards 'undesign', Wolfe's way of describing the classics, and a steady reliance on menswear as an informant to women's trends. If there's anything that calls for high-quality cottons, it's menswear inspired basics.