Coutorture

Interview: Just Another Rich Kid

coutorture — Thu, 14 Feb 2008 09:39:01 -0800

Ken Courtney's t-shirts draw on pop culture without being entirely sincere nor overtly ironic. His shirts are actually quite funny which works out well because the sort of people who spend a hundred dollars on their t-shirts, definitely have a sense of humor. For a nicely fit, high quality cotton t-shirt, with a print that says a lot with a little bit of space, it's not like we think the purchase isn't justified. In fact, Just Another Rich Kid t-shirts really move beyond 'basics' because, though appropriate as layering pieces, they're just as fit to be strong-minded garments with some major real estate in your closet. After the jump, Ken Courtney gives us the break-down of his collection and the other aspects of his brand, namely his killer blog and designs beyond t-shirts.
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What was the concept behind the s/s 08 collection? Live Fast, Die Young !! The collection consists of our design team's take on the darker side of humanity. Influences include: tragic pop culture icons, death and dying, Edgar Allen Poe’s The Raven, Easy Rider, Rebel Without A Cause, The Outsiders, Satanism, punk rock zines, religious iconography, Joy Division, illustrated alphabets & ornate manuscript letters, drips, Bauhaus, death metal, and infamous front page headlines.

How does it, if at all, fit in with what’s happening with other labels this season? I have no clue!!

It’s a deal breaker, we know, if a t-shirt doesn’t fit well. Aside from the imagery on your shirts, can you tell us about the fit and quality? The fit is amazing: it’s been tailored to fit my specifications. Slim fit with a super soft enzyme-washed cotton. It’s all about the fit for Ju$t Another Rich Kid. I’m meticulous with all of the details.

this.heart’s.on.fire. is a perfect example of the element of lifestyle encouraging brand identity. Though I don’t suppose it began as a power point presentation, in what way did you anticipate that the blog would illuminate the brand and contribute to its success? It’s intention is to give another level of insight into what Ju$t Another Rich Kid is all about. It’s definitely an extension of the brand in every way.

As your business grows, do you find it more difficult to be cool? In other words, with everyone watching, is confident conceptual thinking compromised or encouraged? That’s a tough one. I don’t think it has anything to do with everyone watching. When everyone’s watching, it’s easier to be cooler. It has to do with sales. You can’t do FUCK GUCCI tees and ever think any other large US department store will carry your line. And as we all know, you’ve gotta make money to stay afloat.

So, what’s in store for a/w 08? Men’s crewneck tees, raglan sleeve hoodies and crewneck sweatshirts, long sleeve henleys, tailored slim-fit button up shirts (these are amazing!), Italian wool military jackets, and a new series of Indulgences gold dipped jewelry. It’s 7 charms based on the concept of the “7 Deadly Sins”.

MAC And The Karen Walker A/W 08 Look

coutorture — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 08:06:59 -0800

If you're a Karen Walker fan, you're probably keen on the makeup for this season's A/W 08 runway show. We spoke with the MAC team about the quintessential Walker look, where sweet pinks and nude coverage embody that cool downtown vibe. After all, Walker girls aren't really the sort to cake on the face lacquer, nor fuss with touch-ups. If you seek guidance, check out our video from backstage where MAC walks us through the look.

A/W 08: Pre-Fashion Week Studio Visit With Erin Fetherston

coutorture — Sat, 02 Feb 2008 05:57:27 -0800

Right before fashion week, we visited Erin Fetherston to discuss with her the A/W 08 collection. The collection, inspired by Juliet, was atmospherically dark and romantic, it seemed align with Fetherston's whimsical aesthetic though sultry in a way that was advanced. She showed us the rich jewel tones, printed florals, and classical imagery which inspired the collection, but nothing, naturally, compares with seeing it on the runway. With our pre-fashion week video, here's a taste of what goes into pulling together a collection and preparing for the big show.

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Ecco Domani Winner Wayne Presentation

coutorture — Fri, 01 Feb 2008 14:55:06 -0800

We just popped into the Wayne A/W 08 presentation downtown where the breezy collection really lifted our spirits. On a rainy day the 1940's aviation themed collection made us wish we were high above the clouds. Looks like Wayne's got quite a following as it was full of young, pretty things, throwing back the booze. While the girls slowly moved across four platforms, a man sat in the corner playing harmonica and singing in a very lonesome, Steinbeck sort of way. Our video, and photos from the collection, coming to you shortly.

Topshop Not-So Far Away

coutorture — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 10:53:43 -0800

With Topshop on its way to NYC, those of us in little 'ol America can stop pushing the T-word from our minds. Instead, we can focus on how we never have to set foot in another H&M again. We're not exactly Topshop crazy, but will acknowledge that when it comes to the high street, Topshop is one of our top picks. London-based Coutorture partner, Catwalk Queen, made a special visit to Arcadia Group to check in on what's being delivered circa Spring 2008. It's okay, you can look.

Photo by Catwalk Queen.

Exclusive: J. Lindeberg A/W 08 Collection

coutorture — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 10:01:52 -0800

This week, we popped into the J Lindeberg showroom where Kim Johnson, U.S. sales executive, showed us the A/W 08 collection. Later in the week, we'll have a video of Johnson telling us about the inspiration and collaborators for A/W 08, and, Lindeberg's plans for relaunching the women's line. For now, just to wet your appetite, we've got our hands on the complete A/W 08 look book. J. Lindeberg didn't have a runway show this season, so consider this our special sendoff to fashion week!

A/W 08: Pre-Fashion Week Studio Visit With Elise Overland

coutorture — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 07:24:47 -0800

Last week, designer Elise Overland showed us around her studio and spoke to us about her A/W 08 collection. Overland will be drawing from Ski (a large 1970's era photograph of her father skiing poised in the middle of her inspiration board) and dance clothing in order to balance masculine and feminine elements and experiment with utility-based garments in a ready to wear context. The collection will also include special hardware (though how it will manifest, we shall have to see) inspired by antique pieces she's collected from all over the world. Overland's aesthetic is very much of the jetset boheme, when entering her studio one feels as though they've stepped into Miss Havisham's boudoir where stacks of records, plush chairs, and worldly treasures trivialize everyday obligations.

More: Pre-fashion Week Studio Visit With Ashleigh Verrier
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Heiress at Berlin Fashion Week

coutorture — Thu, 31 Jan 2008 06:44:24 -0800

Another young line who presented their A/W 08 collection at Berlin Fashion Week was Heiress. It's easy to hold your breath at the name (Oh, no. No more celebrities in fashion!) but the pair behind the line insist that its manifesto pivots on that of old hollywood. With women like Marlene Dietrich in mind, the pair seek to create frocks for ladies of realistic size and glamorous personality. Patrick Ascher and Andreas Riedle, the two designers behind the line, have the construction process take place in Germany, where haute couture trained tailors hand sew their frocks.

All photos by Andreas Rentz

Deka Ray Jewelry

coutorture — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 08:55:22 -0800

Eugenie Huang, designer of Deka Ray, has the sort of look about her that you'd think, when she told you she made jewelry, that she's just a fun New York gal of good taste and where-with-all. You would think that because there are a lot of young people like that in New York City (or, perhaps, in any city). Being young, pretty, and ambitious usually means you've some sort of thriving business going on, and that's perfectly fine. The aspect that's often missing, in a city where anyone can do anything, are the designers who treat their work as a craft, and who've dedicated their time to learn about it on a deeper (daresay, classical) level. When you see Huang's jewelry, or actually talk to her about her work, you realize that she is both the young ambitious designer who dresses well and knows a lot of people, and also someone who, if stripped of the superficial, would be genuinely intent on her craft.

Part of that difference comes from her educational background. With a B.S. in Architecture from M.I.T. and a Masters from Columbia, Huang has been trained to meditate on the relationship of spaces and materials and to create based on those findings. It's not as if, though, she'd been trained in Architecture simply to leave it for jewelry making, rather, it's been a childhood practice for her, and one that coincidently flourished when she pursued Architecture.

Here Huang talks to us about her work,

Aside from doing personal engagement ring commissions for friends, I generally shy away from precious stones because I believe more in design over high cost gems. I've been exploring using all sorts of different materials, more recently ship's rope twined with laser-cut lucite and wood, but decided to start my first series with the more traditional materials of oxidized silver and gold. I've gravitated towards the shapes of wings for years, and have produced a more stylized mix between machined fins and silhouetted bird wings. I wanted the forms to be somewhat familiar but not precisely real. something a bit otherworldly. I think of Deka Ray as being someone or something otherworldly landing in the woods of North Carolina [where I grew up] and gleaning ideas from this environment mixed with more futuristic notions about technology. Very much in line with the "future primitive" concept.

If you think of fashion as a craft and of yourself as a curator of these artistic manifestations, then a piece from Deka Ray would be treated as part of your collection. In other words, it would be stored carefully and worn well. Sometimes all it takes is a closer look to realize that some girls aren't just makin' jewelry.

Mooka Kinney S/S 08

coutorture — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 06:57:03 -0800

If you haven't grown tired of the jumper phenomenon, may we suggest those by Mooka Kinney. These NYC gals whipped up a couple that were inspired by vintage swimsuits, the sort that you see in boutiques but never know just exactly how to pull off. Pair these with some Jil Sander sandals or some Frye boots, and you've got yourself an easy outfit. Rachel Antonoff and Alison Lewis are two pretty young things with a penchant for vintage. The pair keep it simple by designing with their favorite thrift store finds in mind, reimagining those special pieces with buttons and embroidery, silhouette alterations, or deadstock fabrics.