The 1940s look also pinpoints the defiant glamour of Paris during the occupation. Those wartime clothes — the strict, tailored jackets or floral dresses, set off with whimsical hats, scarlet lips and shoes made from any material other than rationed leather — represent to the French the “R word”: Résistance. But a new exhibition tucked away behind the Gare Montparnasse in Paris suggests something more intriguing. That it is R for recession that brings out utilitarian elegance and creative ingenuity that we are again experiencing in 2009.
"Recession Looks-1940s and Now", International Herald TribuneQuote
Quote Of The Day: Suzy Menkes On 1940's French Wartime Fashion
Quote Of The Day: Women Over 35 Not Accounted For Online
Here lies a problem common to most of these otherwise forward-thinking fashion sites. After the initial fun is over, weather forecasts, friends' groups, and video can seem gimmicky, and when the sites present youthful styles like that pintucked T-shirt and tights to a grown woman headed to the office on Monday morning, they can seem downright disconnected.
"The Forgotten Market Online: Older Women", The Wall Street JournalQuote Of The Day: Cintra Wilson Not A Fan Of Derek Lam's New Store
Indeed: they are a dream team of professionals — charming, attractive, seamless in their handling of both the discreet class and the inquisitive oddballs like me. Mr. Lam’s flagship is his version of that genteel world where the rich are still as spoiled and sheltered as they ever were; his customer is a precious orchid, lovingly tended and exhibited under his enormous acrylic bell...This recipe for femininity looks, to me, as if it is aimed toward a stereotypical Hong Kong billionaire’s wife. The clothes evoke a demure, under-control, decidedly non-rowdy (read: non-Western) type of woman who appreciates her role as an ornament of great value, and sits prettily and quietly in Gulfstream jets.
"Luxury In A Bell Jar", The New York TimesQuote Of The Day: Marios Schwab Talks About His Strategy For Halston
Halston defines a moment in time, epitomizing the glamour, escapism and decadence of the 1970s. The simplistic yet unquestionably glamorous silhouettes embody the fantasy side of fashion...While Halston’s DNA is crucial to its future success, I very much wish to move the brand forward and make it relevant for today. Simple, effortless pieces realized via modern [fabrics] and technology will play a large role in how I will redefine the brand. The clothes will echo the heritage but with a very distinctive, modern feel that is completely new and completely now.
"Halston Taps Marios Schwab as Creative Director", WWDQuote Of The Day: Red Carpet Fashion And Cannes
Over the past few years in the United States, the pressure to look picture perfect during awards season has largely resulted in women wearing gorgeous gowns that quickly fade from memory for their lack of creativity. The industry built up around event dressing, with stylists and publicists clothing actresses and celebrities in beautiful but boring ensembles, has also reduced the personal connection many stars once had with fashion designers. And the weight of the “one-night-only” Oscars has tipped the sartorial scales toward the safe.
Not so at Cannes.
Quote Of The Day: 'The Moment' On Chanel Cruise 2010
First it was New York and then Monte Carlo. Miami and then Moscow. And last night, Venice. (We are talking Venice, Italy, not Venice, California.) Karl took each one of these trips as everything else in his life, with great connoisseurship and grandeur, going deep into the theme and each time merging the Chanel spirit with the local flavor. The production value was always outrageous — even more so in these economic times. Venice had a lot to offer for Karl’s appetite.
"Depth In Venice/Chanel's Cultural Cruise", Stefano TonchiQuote Of The Day: Menswear Takes A Break From Power Suiting
“I have guys coming in here saying, ‘I don’t want to look like a banker anymore,’ ” said Eric Goldstein, an owner of Jean Shop, a premium denim store in the meatpacking district. He is now dispensing advice on how to look like a “creative professional.” The new look is still professional enough for work, even a business lunch. But it is quirky and cool enough to suggest that you haven’t spent the last decade lounging in the old boys’ room inhaling cigar smoke and default swaps.
"When No One Wants To Look Like A Banker", The New York TimesQuote Of The Day: Brian Atwood's Milan Home In Elle Decor
After press trips to Tokyo and Madrid, a New York flyby, a whirlwind visit to his hometown of Chicago, and two weeks of white sand in St. Bart's, accessories designer Brian Atwood has finally parked his suede-moccasined feet at home in Milan. Home for this often-airborne gentleman is the top floor of a 1920s apartment building. The journey up four flights of stairs might be cause for a few grumbles if it did not end with a door that opens to an oasis perched triumphantly above the noise of a bustling piazza.
"The Italian Job", Elle Decor April 2009Quote Of The Day: Carine Roitfeld On French Style
With French women you first see the woman and then you see the clothes. Imagine countries like Russia or China, even Eastern Europe. They don't have the culture of clothes so they want to show that they can afford to buy a Dolce & Gabbana bag, they want to show labels. In France you cannot see what labels we are wearing. It is very snobby.
Interview, Acne Paper [via Fashionologie]

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