“And in terms of the ‘pre-coll’ what is interesting is the timing,” says Mr. Toledano. “It allows us to sell Resort at the end of May, then it is delivered October/November — a long period when sales are strong, and the stores want new things. I think the current system, when the spring runway collection is shown in October, is very late — when three quarters of the buying has already been done.”
”"Reality Check--Or Last Resort?", The International Herald TribuneMs Kawakubo, 66, is one of the great fashion forces from the last decades of the 20th century to now. Integral to her success is that she is too original to be pigeonholed — although others may see her as a symbol of feminism, judging her by the chic severity of an unvarnished face under a straight fringe, complex but plain clothes and flat shoes.
”"Positive Energy: Comme at 40", The International Herald TribuneThe 1940s look also pinpoints the defiant glamour of Paris during the occupation. Those wartime clothes — the strict, tailored jackets or floral dresses, set off with whimsical hats, scarlet lips and shoes made from any material other than rationed leather — represent to the French the “R word”: Résistance. But a new exhibition tucked away behind the Gare Montparnasse in Paris suggests something more intriguing. That it is R for recession that brings out utilitarian elegance and creative ingenuity that we are again experiencing in 2009.
”"Recession Looks-1940s and Now", International Herald Tribune
LVMH is said to be taking a stake in Edun, the eco label launched by Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson.
Sir Phillip Green wants to open two more Topshops in Manhattan and is currently hunting for the real estate.
Trish Goff modeled Erdem's Resort collection which called up the designer's abstract florals and embroideries.
Suzy Menkes taught Academy of Art University students how to crash fashion shows.
The upbeat brand color celebrates not only the centenary this week of Selfridges on Oxford Street in London, but also the fact that the store seems impervious to recession. While other temples to commerce worldwide are facing declining sales, this British flagship is sailing ahead, with figures at a time of financial chaos showing increases over 2008 — which was already “our best year ever,” said Paul Kelly, the chief executive of Selfridges.
”"An Upbeat Selfridges Turns 100", Suzy Menkes for the International Herald TribuneAlthough she exudes pride both in being the wife of the first African-American president and as a mother of two girls, the only fashion message she seems eager to convey is that she is her own woman. ..The first lady is making her own contribution to fashion history by dressing as a woman of strong character — rather than as a presidential wife.
”"The End Of Wife Wear", International Herald TribuneWhen it appeared on the runway at the Louis Vuitton show in October, who could have believed that the fantastical footwear — selling at €1,250 to €2,250 (about $1,650 to $3,000) a pair — could be the hottest item for summer 2009? No wonder that the designer Marc Jacobs baptized it the “Spicy,” giving a name to the shoe, as had previously been the custom with the now-fading It bags. To spice up this footwear, the designer added everything but the kitchen sink — as long as it was out of Africa.
”"Out of Africa" Suzy Menkes for the International Herald Tribune.We [at Stella McCartney] don't believe that it's about all or nothing, but that something is better than nothing. I think that when it comes to trying to look at the environment and trying to work responsibly with it in business, I think it's good to know that you can just do a little bit and it's better than nothing. It's very hard when you're looking at that kind of question to feel like you're doing everything perfectly. I can work with an organic fabric from Japan, but I still have to fly it around the world to get it into a store. You're always faced with problems.
”"Stella McCartney On Ecology, Luxury, and Life", International Herld Tribune
Beginning last night in New Delhi, the International Herald Tribune held its eighth annual luxury business conference focusing on sustainability. Today Suzy Menkes reported on the conference and the topics addressed by the fashion industry's key players. Notable speakers included Nicolas Ghesquière on "Sustaining Creativity From Past To Future", Dries Van Noten on "Working With India", and François-Henri Pinault on "Towards Responsible Luxury". Check out a few press photos from the conference and all of Menkes' articles from the conference right here.
Although the Wills week and its competing Indian fashion events may not yet have made a global impact, designers in this 21st century should be able to thrive on craft and creativity, which are increasingly prized in a fashion world saturated with cookie-cutter brands. "Craft in patchwork, craft in beading — whether I like it or not, all Indian designers are different and they don't do what everyone else has done," said Julie Gilhart, fashion director of Barneys New York. She was front-row-watching Indian fashion for the first time and fascinated by the individuality and verve. "I don't know if we will buy it — Barneys is so focused," Ms. Gilhart said. "But there is not one show where I didn't see a piece that I liked."
”"Indian Designers Make Their Mark With Craft", International Herald Tribune
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