The Yves Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2009 collection was complimented for being an accessible mid-season range. For this collection Stefano Pilati experimented with fabrication in order to drive costs down and keep sales up. When we happened upon the look book today, imagine our surprise when we saw a more avant-garde approach to its representation. The Pre-Fall 2009 collection was shot in every angle imaginable--is this an effort to mystify a range of YSL basics or did they think the clothing really looked better this way? Click on the title link to find your way through this curious look book, or right here, to see a more sober look at the clothes.
For her Pre-Fall 2009 collection, Miuccia Prada worked with volume and texture, keeping other elements, like color, under control. Fur was used quite liberally as was black. If her Men's Fall 2009 and Pre-Fall collections have anything to do with it, we think the Prada Ready To Wear Fall 2009 collection will be quite dark indeed. Is this troublesome? When it's Prada, it's hard not to love.
The menswear and couture shows have been rolling out in rapid succession, but Pre-Fall 2009 continues to haunt us. Frankly, we'd skip right over it if we didn't think that mid-season can offer particularly revealing clues as to what the impending fall collection will look like. That said, it seems Stella McCartney is in a darker, more textured mood for Fall. Will we see this attitude on the runway come March? As much as we'd like to count on McCartney's cool light heartedness, we think her this is an act of foreshadowing indeed.
If there's anyone who can bear the weight of making a heavy fall collection during a time of great global economic decline, it's Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent. Sharp suiting, monochromatic layers, and a no-nonsense approach to dressing are almost to be expected from Yves Saint Laurent this season.
An aristocratic 19th century theme has run through both Alexander McQueen's Fall 2009 men's collection and his Pre-Fall 2009 women's collection--and we can hardly wait to see it on the Fall 09 catwalk. For Pre-Fall McQueen kept with aristocratic tradition and made clothing that either suited hunting by day or a formal dinner by night. As for accessories, both looks came with a bowler hat, leather gloves, or a walking stick.
Recession or no, we can always expect Riccardo Tisci to give us dark, gothic clothing for a fall season. In this Pre-Fall 2009 collection Tisci was influenced by two famous Latin women (Preuvian diva Yma Sumac and Frida) and their confident severity served as his jumping-off point. Periwinkle Chanel-like booties help lighten things up a bit. As with everyone this season, it's all about the accessories.
For Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2009, Galliano looked to some of the potent female characters first imagined by Alfred Hitchcock and Helmut Newton. What that translates to, really, are strong hyper-female outfits not unfamiliar to Galliano in the slightest. In a recession, this uncompromised way of dressing might be the one sentiment that impresses women.
First up, the Pre-Fall 2009 collections of Giambattista Valli, Christian Dior, and Pucci have dropped--this close to the Fall 09 shows, there's no way these looks weren't cut from the same cloth...
Marc Jacobs took his inspiration for the Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2009 collection from "a book about wartime fashions"--well, at least he isn't sugar coating it. Aside from a couple of suspiciously tent-like day dresses we think this throwback is a welcome one. Still present in the collection are modern platform heels, cropped trousers, and fur bombers which help bring the retro cuts and accessories up to date.
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