From left: Louis Vuitton, Giles Deacon, Prada, Louis Vuitton fall 2010
If Miuccia Prada started things off in Milan with her collection celebrating the curvaceous, full-hipped woman, then Marc Jacobs' And God Created Woman show yesterday for Louis Vuitton cemented the movement—boobs are back.
Both designers used fuller-than-the-average-runway-model women this season (as did Giles Deacon), looking to Victoria's Secret girls like Laetitia Casta and Bar Rafaeli, recent mothers Adriana Lim and Karolina Kurkova, and supermodel Elle Macpherson to fill out skirted sundresses, low-cut scoopnecks, and halter top bustiers.
“Designers are always saying they’re going to do a collection for women, but then every girl on the runway is under twenty,” Marc Jacobs said of his decision to cast a variety of ages and sizes for his fall 2010 Louis Vuitton show. “It’s a bit old-fashioned, I know, but I think it’s nice for a change.”
The notoriously straight-shooting and often volatile chief executive of Prada, Patrizio Bertelli, is on the cover of the March issue of WSJ., out this Saturday. He is profiled along with wife Miuccia Prada in an article discussing among many things the couple's 30-year-long relationship, Prada's initial public offering, the company's debt build-up as a result of acquisitions in the 1990s, and the current household controversy over internet strategies and whether or not to dress celebrities.
The article opens with Bertelli shouting at Neiman Marcus' 72-year-old chairman, Burt Tansky, about how the Dallas-based department store displays its Prada merchandise. But thing really get interesting when the interviewer inquires about the brand's internet plans and brings up a recent U.S. newspaper article suggesting Prada was late to the online world compared with brands like Burberry. Miuccia Prada's reaction:
"I think it's bulls-. Why does showing a photo of someone wearing a trench coat online mean being open to the world? What's that got to do with anything?"
While Bertelli is trying to convince Prada to interact more online—both with bloggers and fans—she is adimentely opposed to Twitter and feels there something fundamentally wrong with the way other designers "throw random answers out there." Bertelli acknowledges hers is an "elitist response" to a "democratic" medium.
The article goes on to reveal another ongoing dispute over celebrity dressing: "He says that we are snobs and that we don't understand pop culture," Prada says.
When planning for the upcoming year, Bertelli's focus seems to be on store expansions and opening new boutiques in order lessen Prada's dependance on U.S. wholesale businesses, like that of Mr. Tansky's. The complete article will be on newsstands March 13.
"Miuccia Prada’s fall collection dealt with women oblivious of fads, brands, red carpets and warnings about taking the extra helping."—Cathy Horyn on Prada fall 2010.
Released this morning to promote Love magazine's third issue, The Love Thing features not the supers which graced Katie Grand's eight covers but instead Prada-clad Kasia Struss, Lindsay Wixson, Pixie Geldof, Agyness Deyn, and Dree Hemingway. The models play in traffic while wearing leopard coats, sheer trenches, black garters, or nothing at all.
A section of the newly released 700-page tome, "Prada: Creativity, Modernity, Innovation," documents decades of Miuccia Prada's iconic advertising campaigns—including a geek chic look from 1996, the pleated lip prints from 2000, and vintage Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMenamy. Get ready for some serious flashbacks in the gallery below.
Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada have created a 706-page book for the purpose of capturing Prada's innovations in fashion, art, architecture, and film throughout the past three decades.
The Italian brand has established itself as more than a producer of beautiful clothing and handbags with a history of championing young artists—Tom Sachs, Mariko Mori, Nathalie Djurberg, and Francesco Vezzoli; forming the Prada Art Foundation; and investing in a number of public arts projects including the recent Prada Transformer in Seoul, designed by Rem Koolhaas.
As Bertelli, CEO of Prada Group, explained to WWD, "The book wants to illustrate the various aspects through which Prada expresses itself."
"Prada" will be sold internationally in Prada stores for about $150.
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