Christopher Kane, Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, and whomever is designing for Martin Margiela will create a one-off dress for Printemps' Alice in Wonderland-themed window display.
Director of Valentino: The Last Emperor, Matt Tyrnauer, on his subjects' thoughts after seeing their first screening of the film, "I showed my director’s cut to Valentino and Giancarlo for the first time in March 2008. “Hate” is really too light a word to describe their reaction."
For Martin Margiela's Artisanal Spring 2009 collection the designer used unlikely recycled materials to create elaborate one-off outfits. To the left, an a-symmetrical jumpsuit was created out of denim scraps and, to the right, a teeny tiny dress was made out of discarded plastic combs. For more on the Spring 2009 Haute Couture collections, click here.
Want to see a picture of Martin Margiela? Eric Wilson has one of the last invisible man. Really, because designers have gotten to be such little publicity hounds (and not for the reasons they should be like say their work) this quiet relative anonymity is considered quite shocking.
If you are concerned with what is or is not wearable on the catwalks, which we think is rather relative to your own comforts, then we suppose its nice that someone is keeping score.
Perfumer Sarah Horowitz's fragrance brand is going mainstream by repackaging her premiere line of scents in a more accessible form and launching it in Anthropologie. We had no idea that even the perfumers had to go for down market markets and collaborations. Not that we are saying Anthropologie is down market per say.
We almost hate to make a critique of Maison Martin Margiela on their Twentieth Anniversary but the reliance the house has on the intellectual chestnut of anonymity has grown stale for us even as fashion conformity grows as a problem in identically merchandised style capitals across the globe. At no time is critiquing the sameness of fashion more necessary and yet never has it felt more stale to literally wipe out any traces of personality or identity when conceiving a catwalk. Yes, how clever, fashion obscures as it reveals, Frederick Jameson's photorealism and artistic simulacrum in a dress, the representing and the represented. It's been done, and while everyone loves a "best of" show the collection leaves us unsure, amid the rumours, that a future is even warranted.
In the twenty years since the house begun the fashion landscape has changed, leaving behind unsteady footing for the avant garde. Barbarians are at the gate and an army of amateur editors lay waste to the minutiae of every gossipy detail. And so it is no longer enough to have one issue, no matter how salient, as an intellectual rallying point. We simply do not have the attention span (and even if we did we would question anonymity as one that needs to be reiterated season after season).
Many designer have gotten past this attention deficit conundrum not through better designer or stronger inspirations but through celebrities, political innuendo and skillful public relations. Perhaps Martin Margiela is too good for these gambits or perhaps he is not quick enough to operate on this new playing field. It is no coincidence that no one has even seen his photo and yet we must say that rather than heightening the allure it makes us say perhaps the emperor has no face. He has let us in on the joke and it turns out its not very funny. Post Modernism is over Martin.
We are so angry at the failure of the American government to propose a reasonable bailout strategy for Wall Street we can barely control ourselves, and while our problem may be emotional incontinence apparently a lack of control is the inspiration for Japan's newest fashion trend. Seriously, a fashion show of "nappies" aka diapers to show an aging population just how fashionable diapers can be happened in Tokyo. The funniest part? They played Relax by Frankie Goes to Hollywood.
Belgium designers are getting a grip on business, Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten are opening stores and entering into licensing agreements in order to boost their sales.
Jeremy Scott, who will show his namesake collection in Paris on Sept. 30, has signed a multiseason deal with activewear giant Adidas to design apparel and footwear for men and women. Streetwear designers Alyasha Owerka-Moore and Kazuki are also involved. His winged high tops are actually pretty cool.
The halter top is saddled with all kinds of unfortunate cultural associations. Your editor had a veritable closet full during her sorority days thanks to the good folks of Express Fashions (ask her about her miniskirt collection someday). Thus, when community partner Fashion Pad reminded us that baring your shoulders during the hot summer months is a good look for many women and not to mention quite cool, we did a double take on the halter top. We didn't want some boob hugging up in your face "why don't you buy me a drink, spare the roofie please, check out my sequins" contraption obviously. We wanted something that was in line with the fashion we already consume. A quick shopping trip has shown us that we are being rewarded by the gods of merchandising this summer. The hippest of the hip from across the cool spectrum including Martin Margiela, Mayle and Humanoid all have options we can sincerely endorse.
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