For fall 2010 Jen Kao experimented with knitwear, exotic skins, and fur— her signature paneling firmly in place.

Presented at Milk Studios, Kao's photogenic front row included a long list of fashion's girls of the moment. Julia Restoin-Roitfeld, Lauren Santo Domingo, Becka Diamond, Harley Viera-Newton, and Pamela Love all looked on as Kao's first five looks—seriously micro cable knit sweater dresses—gave way to slightly more modest pieces.

Most notable were a sequin wool dress with padded shoulders, fur paneled leather vests, a pair of quilted shorts paired with a cashmere blazer, and a shear turtleneck and fur-fringed skirt combo. The color palette moved from black to jade to oxblood and back again to black, and hardcore python piping and leather paneling found balance in soft draped pants paired with oversized jersey tanks.

Collaborating with Eddie Borgo on jewelry for the third season and for the first time with Alejandro Ingelmo on shoes, the accessories were spot on. Interlocking cuffs, stacked bangles, spiked double rings, and architectural collars by Borgo and open-toe stiletto booties from Ingelmo added to the toughness of the collection.

The show ended with a series of black floor-length gowns, gothic in their high collars, long sleeves, and aggressive jewels—Jen's Kao's tough girl gone glam.

Jen Kao lightened up fall's moody palette this season with a collection that largely stayed within neutral tones of rose, gray, and white. While colors were paler, Kao continued to please her tough-chic fans with cropped motorcycle jackets, geometric bustier dresses and sharp cut-outs. As Kao explained, "The collection is feminine, but still very structural. The clothes are free and draped, but still very complex in the way they are built."

The detailed construction was evident in the graphic paneling of a suede mini skirt, a silk kimono with chain embroidery, and a sharply tailored white suit with strong shoulders. Eddie Borgo cuffs and earrings were a nice hard-edged contrast to the collection, as were Tania Spinellie's chain mail fringe heels. Each inspired, according to Kao, by medieval face shields and all styled expertly by Keegan Singh.