Coutorture

Today's Shows: Fall 2009 New York Fashion Week

coutorture — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 20:04:09 -0800

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Christian Cota, Kati Stern Venexiana, Charlotte Ronson, Cushnie et Ochs, Rag & Bone, Shipley & Halmos, Nicole Miller, Duckie Brown, BCBG Max Azria, Jason Wu, Yigal Azrouel, Heart Truth

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Look Book Trends And Coolness

coutorture — Mon, 04 Aug 2008 09:30:31 -0700

Not caring very much about what other people think has been the formula for being cool since cool became a "thing". Designers have been a prime example of this for as long as fashion has existed. Anyone who has ever become a sensation was never really like everyone else. You can't lead the crowd if you are "of" the crowd. And that's all there is to it.

We were thinking about this when we read that Scott Sternberg, who runs Band of Outsiders and Boyy, has scraped his Spring 09 presentation/show in favor of a video saying, “I don’t make runway clothes. These are clothes you wear on the street, so I’m just super-uncomfortable with it. It puts it in totally the wrong context - I want to do something closer to where the clothes are, and let people actually touch and feel them as opposed to seeing them on a 14-year-old anorexic model.” Aside from the fact that this might have something to do with the recession, he's totally and completely right and everyone knows it. The only reason we go to these shows, which are more or less completely irrelevant because there is no 'spectacle'--just blazers as usual, is because it gives everyone a break from the insane stuff during fashion week. It's really, ahem, low-key, and really, ahem, unpretentious and as much as we realize it's kind of unnecessary, we've always appreciated the break in insanity. So, Sternberg, in addition to this, has shot his look book with a celebrity friend on polaroid. This, we think, takes the cake. It is very cool of both of them to be behaving this way because it takes the power of The Industry and of The Tabloids and puts it right back in their own hands. Like, "Oh, you're going to try to have me schedule myself in the same time slot as DKNY? Oh, you're going to try to make me some common Starbucks slurping celebrity?--"No, that is not how we're going to do this.". These are the instances that remind you just why you know this person's name in the first place.

A Dilemma In Showing Menswear

coutorture — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 12:46:35 -0700

A very interesting article landed on our desk this morning (teehee). Portfolio's Lisa Marsh wrote an article on the discord between the menswear shows and buying season. She used this week's 'abbreviated schedule' of men's shows that took place in accordance with the trade shows happening in New York right now, Capsule, Collective, and Project, as a talking point for whether a men's fashion week would ever pick up in New York. Basically, about a decade ago, there was such a thing and it came after Milan and Paris in July. American designers, felt their collections weren't given enough attention because of this (no one wants to be the third in line and right before women's kicks off) so they started moving their showings to Milan instead. And the rest is recent history. New York's men's fashion week kind of faded away and now, we're left with the remnants. Yesterday we were meant to attend the Obakki show but had a really intense (but fun) shoot that ran late. Normally a show and a shoot wouldn't have even been scheduled on the same day to avoid that exact problem but we figured we would already have covered Capsule and wouldn't need to see some random runway presentation--if worse came to worse. What we found out today, in the article, was that the Obakki show was part of a handful of shows happening this week that are trying to revive a menswear week in New York. It was, to our surprise, kind of an organized 'let's revive men's fashion week' thing. Well, brand reps, you could have fooled us! We certainly appreciate the invitation but wish we'd know that the show had a context. In the end it's really not anyone's fault. The point is that menswear is experiencing some tricky booking conflicts and will (we hope) sort itself out in the coming years. Everyone says menswear is back in New York (meaning that men are dressing better than ever and the collections from contemporary to high price points are more interesting) and we just hope that means a proper fashion week is in the works.

Fashion in 50 Seconds 4/24

coutorture — Thu, 24 Apr 2008 05:13:45 -0700

Apparently women are no longer allowed to dress to impress. The dress is now officially over much to the chagrin of trend forecasters and mid-market contemporary trade shows. Everyone's favorite Elle editor Anne Slowey has declared “The dress has been done to death." She was however careful to add “not to sound really cliché.” Yes we imagine the dress has been done to death because like pants, shirts, and skirts it is a staple. So the cycle continues.

You might also want to avoid mentioning the dress is dead to junior retailers. Mod dresses and jumpers are going to be all the rage!

Wal-Mart still doesn't how how it feels about being a discount retailer despite George and Metro 7 flopping with their high priced $30 Mark Eisen creations. Its jumping back on the fashion band wagon with partnerships with Jones Apparel Group's l.e.i brand and Iconic Brand Group's Op. Somehow this involves advertising in magazines like Lucky and Cosmo using people we don't really know (apparently Kristin Cavallari and Pete Wentz). People so removed from our worldview we aren't even sure if this violates our no celebrity policy by mentioning them or not.

Chicago is having fashion week troubles. Apparently the city was supposed to fashion week style events last Wednesday, called Chicago Fashion Week, that were canceled at the last minute. These are not to be confused with Mayor Daly officially sanctioned fashion week called Fashion Focus Chicago which happens in September. Seems hiring a fashion czar Melissa Gamble hasn't done much for the second city. Which is too bad because we think models walking underneath Anish Kapoor's Egg in Millennium Park would be awesome.

Toronto Fashion Week Recap

coutorture — Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:45:54 -0700

Last week Toronto held its seventh fashion week and in case you missed it, we've got a recap of the best from the five days. With all the Fashion Week's happening all over the world it can be difficult to keep up, but in fashion, it's all about keeping one finger on the little guys, if only for a break from the know-it-alls. With 69 designers who showed during this Toronto Fashion Week, we've sorted through them and pulled out Denis Gagnon, Talenti Moda Milano, Joeffer Caoc, Pink Tartan, and Gsus.

Denis Gagnon: This wild and crazy Quebecer's designs are sold all over the world. His aesthetic pivots on leather and tailoring, two things that every fashionista pays homage to on a regular basis. This Fall 08 season Gagnon showed a collection where blacks were draped and woven to a rebellious finish. One black nylon dress with cape-like tailoring finished the show nicely. Finally, an outfit that works with the wind tunnels of Lower Manhattan.

Talenti Moda Milano: Somehow this collection, whether it was the palate or drapery, reminded us of the cottons obsessed brand Clu. For Fall 08 Talenti Moda Milano showed experiments in draping, where tucks and pleats made us raise our eyebrows for different reasons. The best piece, we thought, was a black jacket with tails and a silk acid green collar. Oh, if we could get our hands on that!

Joeffer Caoc: Joeffer Caoc launched his line in 1995 and, over the years, has been named a designer 'to watch' by every fashion council and Canadian publication out there. His aesthetic pleases a lot of audiences and is known for it's classic cuts and fluid lines. This Fall 08 remained in tune with this personality, where rich gem colors were made into flattering, basic evening dresses and coats.

GSUS:Whoa there you crazy Canadians! We saw this collection while listening to "One Pure Thought" by Hot Chip and the combination seemed perfect. Someone did a flip on the runway, is all we'll say about the GSUS show. Oh, also that the brand, run by two dutch designers, showed some bright nylon that we think makes for some fun street wear.

Pink Tartan: Pink Tartan is pretty well known round these parts, though perhaps only just recently, when downtown boutiques started carrying the brand. This Fall 08 season we were happy to see randomly placed zippers and slim navy trousers as part of the collection. Also right on target were short motorcycle gloves that offset the more feminine looks.

In case it wasn't obvious, photos courtesy of L'Oreal Fashion Week

L.A. Fashion Week: Recapping It, Like, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday

coutorture — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 07:31:17 -0700

Oh, Los Angeles, you crazy old broad. Los Angeles Fashion Week, which comes just before Market Week, is chalk full of many license-less New Yorkers hitting the pedal to the metal and cruising to the shows. We think it's a funny little image, and although the shows never generate the same kind of excitement as New York, there are always those moments when you say to yourself, "Baby, a star is born". As much as the thought of Jenna Jamison unveiling the newest Peta Ad, well, startles us, we'd prefer to just, well, recap. Below, our rundown of what Los Angeles has thrown on the table the past few days. Namely, one designer for each day and a little Gen Art lovin'.

JMary, Jesse Kamm, & Le Sang des Betes: This will be the fifth year that Gen Art hosts its "The New Garde" event, showcasing up and coming designers West Coast style. The event, sponsored by Botox, kicked off Los Angeles Fashion Week. JMary showed West Coast evening appropriate outerwear in black and charcoal wool, there was a pleated black dress that would have satisfied fashionistas from both coasts. Jesse Kamm, who launched her label a few years ago, showed a collection inspired by Crocodile Dundee. The hand printed head scarves she created as part of the collection, we're right on target with Fall trends but not a far reach, given her inspiration. Finally Trang Chau of Le Sang des Betes, showed off her training as a sculptor by showing tailored garments with a slightly off-kilter silhouette (pictured above).

Sunday, March 9, Whitley Kros: The line, rep'd by People's Revolution, featured bohemian layering in bright colors. The best print by far, a sort of digital Southwestern print, appeared on three frocks, each to suit different figures. The designers, Marissa Ribisi and Sophia Coloma (one of the founders of Satine), specialize in what they refer to as 'luxe casual wear' which we saw manifest in the high quality knit sweaters and chic silk trousers. Click to see images from the Fall 08 collection.

Monday, March 10, Suh-Tahn: All the black, brown, and leather a New Yorker in Los Angeles can handle. This Fall 08 season, Suh-Tahn featured a palate of basic colors, and one refreshing white cotton dress. The dress, a simple scoop neck with dipped waist seam, epitomizes what casual West Coast style does best. Namely, a well-made basic that is as glamorous as any high maintenance frock (given the right accessories and attitude). Indeed, this is how you dress up in Los Angeles and for a moment there, we felt a little jealous. Click to see images from the Fall 08 collection.

Tuesday, March 11, Falguni & Shane Peacock: This Fall 08 saw leopard silk prints, dramatic drapery, and jeweled embellishments. At worst it veered towards tacky airport-shop sheaths, and at best, towards vintage Versace glamour. What was most successful were the mixing of loud prints, jewels, drapery, and length without appearing like the bedspread from hell. Falguni & Shane Peacock, also known as Peacock Couture, governs a bridal, resort, and men's line in addition to the womenswear collections. The company made its debut during India Fashion Week, some years back. Click to see images from the Fall 08 collection.

Elie Saab Fall RTW 2008 Fashion Show Video and Designer Interview

coutorture — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 12:01:22 -0800

A video of the runway show

Chanel Fall 2008 RTW Fashion Show Video and Karl Lagerfeld Interview

coutorture — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 11:56:26 -0800

A video of the Chanel Ready To Wear Show and interview with Karl Lagerfeld

Lanvin Fall 2008 RTW Fashion Show Video and Alber Elbaz Interview

coutorture — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 11:50:09 -0800

A video and interview with Alber Elbaz

Exclusive Coutorture Content

coutorture — Sun, 24 Feb 2008 17:50:26 -0800

It can be so hard keep track of content when its updated everyday. But we have impressive designer video interviews and original editorial spreads. May we cordially suggest perusing our selection? Enjoy New York Fashion Week Designer Video Interviews from Oscar De La Renta, Donna Karan for DKNY,Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Nicole Miller, Erin Fetherston, Ashleigh Verrier , Adam Lippes, James Coviello, John Varvatos , Monique Lhuillier, Joanna Mastroianni, Tory Burch, Neeam Khan