Both menswear and womenswear designers updated the classic British trench coat this season. Christopher Bailey's perfect example of spring's modified trench at Burberry Prorsum was a silver paillette-covered jacket that came down the runway through a storm of metallic confetti. John Galliano used cropped versions to vamp up his forties film noir-themed show for Christian Dior, while Phoebe Philo cut the venerable outerwear piece into a sleeveless wrap dress at Celine. For him, texture and color were all the rage—permanently wrinkled at Missoni and bright red and pale blue at Trussardi and Jil Sander, respectively.
Burberry Prorsum
Spring 2010 Trend Report: His and Her Trench Coats
London Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum Spring 2010
Runway Report: Burberry Prorsum Spring 2010
Celebrating new London headquarters and the 25th anniversary of London Fashion Week, Christopher Bailey brought Burberry back home from the runways in Milan where he had been showing the Prorsum collection for the past eight years.
As Mario Testino put it, there was a full-on red carpet outside the white Burberry tent in London today, appropriate for the star-studded front row rolling in for the fashion show including Gwyneth Paltrow and Liv Tyler—seen holding hands over Emma Watson—Victoria Beckham, Mary Kate Olsen, Freida Pinto and Dev Patel, Jacquetta Wheeler, Agyness Deyn, Anna Wintour, and Carine Roitfeld.
According to Bailey spring 2010 is the season of the belt at Burberry, and that meant cinched waists on a pastel palette of dresses and skirts—think lavender, pale pink and mint green—all twisted, pleated and draped. Bailey transformed traditional Burberry pieces into new and unexpected shapes with texture, adding a fresh sculptural quality to his collection. Even the classic beige trench received an update for spring—looking ultra modern with gathered puffed-up shoulders, ruched sleeves, and a knotted hem in back.
As for the A-list crowd in attendance, they all headed straight to that new Burberry building for an after party where we hear computers have been set up for easy tweeting. Allow Style.com's Fashion Feed to help you be there in spirit.
Milan: Burberry Prorsum Men's Spring 2010
Milan 06/20/09 Photos by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images.
Quote Of The Day: Foreshadowing Burberry Prorsum Spring 2010
The intense level of in-house research and fabric innovation is worn lightly, creating a raft of effects here that Bailey described with adjectives like "cloudy," "seductive," and "relaxed." The result: a lightened-up, youthful lineup of pragmatic day-to-day separates—like puffy-shouldered knits with a knot in the sleeve and pleated pants with rolled cuffs—that pays attention to delivering specialness while deflating any sense of showy luxe. Bailey promises this direction and color palette will inform his September show in London, a gala affair the Brit says he's already anticipating with a frisson of nerves: "I've been working for ten years, but it's my first show here, ever. So it's going to be really exciting."
"Burberry Prorsum Resort 2010", Sarah MowerMilan Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum Fall 2009
Milan 02/27/09. Photos by S. D'Alessandro/WireImage & Chris Moore/Getty Images.
Milan: Burberry Prorsum Men's Fall 2009
Milan 01/17/09. Photos by Karl Prouse/Catwalking/Getty Images







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