Print designer Mary Katrantzou's Fall 2009 collection took inspiration from vintage perfume bottles and packed quite a graphic punch. This was Katrantzou's first collection flying solo at London Fashion Week and she took it as an opportunity to move beyond the shift dress silhouette and into more diverse terrain. Katrantzou's pieces are often printed with giant necklaces and this season she created actual jewelry as part of her collection--the results of which were visually fantastic. Check out Katrantzou's standout Fall 2009 collection in the gallery below.
Borne in 2006 and operated out of Bucharest, Romania this avant-garde fashion brand caught our eye we saw a film of their show on Dazed Digital. Their Fall 2009 collection, shown as part of London Fashion Week's On/Off set list, was inspired by designer Olah Gyrafas' notion of a futuristic bounty hunter. The colors, all faded greenish-grey for men and soft pink for women, were chosen based on a famous color psychologist's prediction of "the colors of the future". Check out look book images and runway shots from Rozalb de Mura's Fall 2009 collection below.
We're not sure if the feeling is universal but we can't get enough of bra-tops for Spring. Pair them with high waisted trousers or layer them a la Louise Gray Fall 2009, and you're set. Speaking of Gray, her newest collection is full of her colorful, powerbabe pieces but, as she told WWD, paired with more substantial offerings as well. In this case, substantial translates to wearable, less-noticeable outerwear and lean trousers. All we can say is, Go Gray!
After three jam-packed rounds of MAC face charts from the New York shows we bring you one whopping set of looks straight off the runway in London. From the tough girl looks at Vivienne Westwood Red Label to the utterly glamorous looks at Nicole Farhi and Roksanda Ilincic there's definitely enough Fall 2009 beauty to last the whole season.
Despite any previous definitions, in 2009, the little cocktail dress is quite an aggressive and serious thing. Marios Schwab perfectly captured that sentiment this season and confidently showed a trouser-less collection. Beautifully draped and bursting, in some cases, with jewels these imaginative frocks have pushed the designer into a much deserved higher status.
The duo behind Peter Pilotto always start a collection from two vantage points: natural wonders and the microscopic. This season it was, "rock crystal shapes, kaleidoscopic shards, and an artist’s tiny paintbrush daubs" which translated to heavy embellishments, rich prints, and texture tricks on a range of cocktail party wear. We see links to Rodarte (the intellectual, the minutia) and Balmain (beading, shoulders, legs for miles) in Peter Pilotto and we will always be on their side because of it.
Henry Holland and Aggy Deyn have turned the gossamer web of media celebrity into the safety net of a substantial career. (Their friends the Misshapes, who provided the music for the House of Holland show, are a transatlantic parallel.) The problem with that kind of success is that it's almost always the triumph of style over substance. I can't imagine Holland cares.
Rick Owens
Psssy
Missoni
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