The suits and the coats are slim but the fit seems more accessible and mature, and Simons is now making all the clothes in Italy. It shows in the quality of the materials and construction. Lots of designers explore tailoring but the results are often tortured or uninteresting or superficial. You don’t see what the designer means for us to see, or if there is remotely a valid connection to a young man’s life. Still photos will probably not capture the vital difference in this show, though maybe they will.