Garmento: Inside Denim Fabric Sourcing
Everyone loves slipping into a great pair of jeans, and premium denim has achieved cult status as the must-have fabric of everyone from undergrads to top fashion editors. Considering its ubiquitous popularity, we thought exploring the wide ranging qualities of denim would be the perfect topic for Garmento.
Ever been disappointed by jeans that started wearing out after only a year? While that $50 pair of Uniqlos might be a great deal now, they are affordable because mass-produced, imported denim is not designed to last. For trendy styles and seasonal colors, cheap jeans might be the right choice, but spending extra cash pays off in the long run when looking for your new favorite pair.
We met up with Erica Brown and Kara Nicholas of Cone Denim to view their collection at the Manhattan showroom. Established in Greensboro, North Carolina in 1891 by brothers Moses and Ceasar Cone, Cone Denim has been a supplier of fabric to top denim apparel brands like Levi’s (their signature 501s are made exclusively from Cone) for over 100 years. They currently operate in the U.S., Mexico and Turkey, but their highest quality and most artisanal denim styles are still made in Greensboro, N.C. on original shuttle looms that have been in operation since the 1930’s.
As we all try to stretch our dollars during the current economic downturn, even dedicated shoppers might ask, “Why pay $200 for a pair of jeans?” While it’s true that brand recognition and design details are big pricing factors, the quality of the fabric has a huge impact on how a great pair of jeans will look and wear over time. True denim connoisseurs look for selvedge-edge styles, which mean that the fabric has a finished edge on both sides and is produced in short runs on vintage equipment, like the shuttle looms at Cone. While Japanese mills are still the top choice for this style, many American designers are becoming aware that there are competitively-priced domestic options. Other premium types of denim include organic, indigo-free and vintage-styled denim. Cone has experienced growing popularity in these types with their White Oak collection, inspired by original constructions of the early to mid 1900's and developed for the premium market of denim aficionados and vintage collectors. See below for our video interview, gallery of the studio, and more information.
Links:
Cone Denim
Garmento: Inside Leather Manufacturing at KnoxNY
Garmento: Inside the Screenprinter’s Studio
Video by Justin Perkinson
About Garmento: Garmento is a weekly feature on Coutorture devoted to giving you an inside look at the real fashion industry. Before the runway reviews and the photo shoots, before the ad campaigns and the Vogue editorials, an enormous network of fashion professionals are involved in the creation of every garment. Check us out every week for a new perspective on each step, from trend forecasting and design to manufacturing and sales. With every new profile, you’ll see that whether your fav outfit is from H&M or Hermes, the process is the same. Don’t become a fashion victim- inform yourself weekly with Garmento, and unleash the smart and savvy shopper within.
About Bob Bland: Bob Bland is a freelance writer and professional menswear designer with experience at Triple Five Soul, Rugby by Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Banana Republic. She is also the designer and founder of Brooklyn Royalty, a Williamsburg-based line of men’s and ladies’ apparel. Founded in 2006, the line combines timeless design principles, premium materials and hand-printed graphics for indispensible garments that are meant to look and wear better over time. For more on Bob Bland and Brooklyn Royalty, check out www.brooklynroyalty.com.
You Write: "While that $50 pair of Uniqlos might be a great deal now, they are affordable because mass-produced, imported denim is not designed to last."
I think that statement may be somewhat misleading...in the video, Kara Nicholas says, "It actually sounds really [counterintuitive] to the story. The quality of some of the salvaged denims is not as good or as high as some of the ones woven on the larger looms (meaning commercial looms using in mass production)."
She goes on to say that larger looms are "more efficient and they give you a more pristine sort of denim."
Denim woven using old looms will inherently have more defects in the fabric, she says.
I can not argue that these unique characteristics give Cone denim it's beauty and charm, but that doesn't mean it will necessarily last longer than a pair of jeans purchased for $50 at Uniqlo.
Am I missing something here? Just want to get my facts straight.