Interview With Michelle Siwy of Siwy Denim
Siwy denim, launched in 2005, isn't your average premium denim brand. That is, Siwy's tailoring is so unique that the buzz surrounding the brand isn't based on superficial hype but on the incomparable construction. In short, no denim label on the market offers a cut that even resembles that of Siwy's. The back seam is shaped like a heart (rather than a straight line) making your backside look round rather than squashed. To drive the point home, quilted pockets with rose embroidery are meant to give you an extra lift. Granted, acknowledging a woman's curves tends to set off red flags in the minds of carb counting premium denim consumers everywhere, but the cut speaks for itself and the legions of Siwy addicts are proof that this reaction is often a temporary one. We have to say, when you slip on a pair of these jeans, you realize that your backside looks way better with a little support than it does flattened like a pancake (Oh bai, Cheap Monday's).
Made and manufactured in California but based in New York, Siwy has access to competitive West Coast facilities without abandoning their New York sense of style. Michelle Siwy, the founder and designer, is a down to earth, downtown girl whose approachable personality but headstrong work ethic only encourage her devoted fans to stand behind her in what one might call the great American denim crusade. Siwy is sold all over the world and in many high end American department stores. The brand is represented by Company Agenda who also represents fashion forward designers like James Coviello, United Bamboo, and Twinkle, among others.
Our interview with Michelle Siwy of Siwy denim below. For more on Siwy, check out our review of the Spring 08 collection and our exclusive Coutorture editorial with this summer's styles.
Michelle, can you tell us a little bit about what inspired you to start Siwy?
At the time, when we launched, I felt there was a gap in a saturated denim market that needed to be filled with a line that was cut with current fashion movements in mind, while maintaining a classic and sophisticated appeal. I felt the options were limited to one type of jean and shape. I wanted people to know that this fabric was versatile enough to change season and still remain a timeless staple.
What were the major hurdles in building the company? The major markers of success?
It was very difficult to find an investor that isn't going to take more than half of everything you have built up in your mind and control you and your designs, that will take a risk on a completely unknown name and let me just be me. I was very, very, lucky and I appreciate my business partner. Major markers:
1. The first time I saw someone I didn't know wearing my jeans that was not related or affiliated with me, in a different city and country.
2. The first time a "fan" emailed and said our jeans saved her relationship.
3. The first time a major chain knocked off our pocket. It felt like a kick in the face.
4. When Kate Moss wore our jeans for the first time. I truly had an outer body experience. I screamed so loud that the building manager thought I saw a rat.
The seam at the back of Siwy jeans is something people know a lot about. What about the other signature details, like the hem of Siwy jeans?
I am easily annoyed and irritated. I thought it was just so aggravating when I would just sweep up half of New York City's grimy, slimy streets on one walk. So, I would hem my own jeans to follow the natural curve that was caused by the heel drag. It was much easier to do than to go to a tailor, who would argue with me, endlessly about why he had to cut it straight across. My way, kept the jeans from dragging and you didn't lose the leg lengthening qualities of a longer front panel.
How great a role do denim trends (skinny versus wide leg, rise, etc) play into your designs for each season?
I don't look into what other denim labels are doing, but I have to keep in mind what is on the runway as far as shape and volume and translate my collection to work with those ideas. It's imperative I know what is going on with the accessories market more, to see what boots or heels are in or if I need to increase my belt loop size for wider belts. If long, voluminous tops were in everyone's collection, there is a chance that I am going in the opposite direction for denim and go slim. If waist cinching styles are on the rise, I play with different flare points on my legs to get the right balance to work in proportion. I do sense that there is something different on the rise with denim. I make sure to be aware of color trends, so that I can either add something I like or make sure all of my shades of indigo work harmoniously with them. I think with the way information is processed these days, trends are staying longer and overlapping, which is causing people to just be unique individuals because they are no longer afraid or intimidated to try. They are exposed to style happening around the world and therefore effecting each other.
Where do you find your fabrics and with whom (or how) do you develop the washes?
We use US denim mills for our fabric. We use a wash facility in LA that treats wash as more of an art than a simple, unthoughtful wash process. This type of relationship ensures that my vision will not be compromised. All denim starts off raw and it's up to the designer to reflect themselves through the washes. Initially, I get my inspiration anywhere from scouring vintage flea markets to botanical gardens to staring at a bird's feathers to checking out vintage album covers. I like to spend time in different museums to get lost and get in a creative zone for hours alone. Sometimes, all it takes is people watching from my fire escape. The way someone walks or flicks their hair, all turns into slow motion for me and sets a mood. Denim is the type of fabric that can tell an incredible, personal history and that is what I have in mind when working. I search for a way to describe my feelings or mood and take it out on the only fabric I know that can handle it, denim.
